At 5:00 p.m., it was still 25 degrees Celsius when we left the Longmen Caves area. All around us, the Chinese people wore sweaters and wool leggings. Our tour guide, Lisa, wore red sweat pants and a fleece jacket. We foreigners sported shorts or cargo pants and short-sleeved Tees because we were hot. The boulevard back to the bus was again another l-o-o-o-n-g walk.
Our driver turned into a pot-holed dirt road in the middle of no man’s land. What? I don’t recall buildings or much of anything that looked like civilization for a short while. We rounded a tight corner on the bumpy road and like an oasis in the desert, came upon the strangest sight–at least to me. Two long buildings materialized meeting at right angles at one corner. I can only describe it as a motel—with a second storey.

© by permission of RJ, a member of English 8
The building is in the back. A lovely bridge and flower garden decorated the middle courtyard.
Dinner was served through Door 111 in the front room barely large enough for a round 6-foot table, and us.
Dinner:
- Noodle soup
- Fritters
- White rice
- Cauliflower
- Sweet and sour chicken
- Scrambled eggs and chopped tomatoes
- Cooked sliced potatoes and ground beef
- Pork and scallions
- Garlic sprouts with sliced red peppers and fungus
- Greens
This time we were served—count them—two baby glasses of drinks. I had beer. Twice.
The bathroom was an open-ended building with six or eight stalls. No outside doors or plastic against the elements did I see at either end. All were squats but someone had taken a card chair, removed the seat and stuck a toilet seat on it. I opened the door and slipped inside. Afterwards Sue grumbled because I had lucked out somewhat with the only ‘throne’.
Along the way to the facilities after dinner, we passed two young ladies with a plastic container filled with cutlery (forks). I saw no soap in the water, no sponge or wash cloth. Agitation seemed the customary /accepted practice to clean the flatware.
Maybe this was a restaurant after all. At the end of the building opposite the facilities, we heard kitchen noises and a teen in a not quite pristine kitchen jacket appeared. He ran to the washroom and out again without stopping. Had he touched our dinner?
Another man (not from the kitchen) washed his hands with the liquid Palmolive soap before entering the facilities and washed them again on his way out. Sue and I gaped at the scene and then each other.
A large fat bug floated in one plugged sink, legs pointed heavenwards, with no knowledge he was dead.
I asked Lisa about the building. The year before, she had brought a tour bus of visitors when only the ground floor had been finished. The second floor had just been added and was just a decoration. What did that mean? I noticed a couple of large windows revealing cardboard boxes stacked high and wide.
I asked her again what we call this place.
“A restaurant. A different type of restaurant. I think this is a different experience from other restaurants.”
What? Never mind.
We arrived in Zhengzhou a couple of hours later. The time: 7:00 or 7:30 p.m. in early spring. Is this how dark it is at home in the spring? The hotel was attractive but appeared empty and quiet. The interior design cost more than the building. We dragged out luggage inside. Lisa went to the desk with our passports to get our room keys.
I asked why the furniture was so big since the people were not. It was a sign of wealth and prosperity.
Quick Luoyang facts:
- Population 2 million
- This is a tourism city
- Copper mining, glass factory
- Heavy industry: tractor, first built in 1959
- The Peony is the city flower (blooms in April)
- This is an old capital city
- Buddhism popular
Next on August 29, Day 7, International Shaolin Kung Fu Training Center and Shaolin Temple
For more related posts, click on China tab at the top of the page.
August 22, 2014 at 7:16 pm
Reblogged this on mihran Kalaydjian and commented:
Luoyang, Day 6, Part 3 –Dinner and Stories
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August 22, 2014 at 7:36 pm
Yuck! I don’t wqant to think about what else the cooks touched. I have trouble thinking about that here.
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August 22, 2014 at 8:09 pm
Yikes, I might have gone hungry that night!
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August 22, 2014 at 9:35 pm
Did anyone ever get sick on the group? It could be we Americans are overly cautious about cleanliness. Or not.
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August 23, 2014 at 1:12 pm
Nope but watching this scene unfold made ME sick. I’m surprised I didn’t lose my supper.
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August 22, 2014 at 9:52 pm
The food looks delicious but the bathroom and sink scene left a lot to be desired. Good thing you didn’t get food poisoning. At least assuming not. Hope that’s not the next post.
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August 23, 2014 at 1:13 pm
No-one got sick the whole trip except one of the men with a cold for a week. Lucky.
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August 22, 2014 at 10:27 pm
I have a friend who just returned from a trip to China. Her story is EXACTLY the same! EXACTLY!
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August 23, 2014 at 1:15 pm
What surprises me is this didn’t stop us from having breakfast the next morning etc. etc. I’d forgotten about it. Sheesh. I must have been really tired and working on China air.
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August 22, 2014 at 11:07 pm
Two beer and the throne? Your lucky day I believe! 🙂
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August 23, 2014 at 1:15 pm
😀 😀
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August 23, 2014 at 8:45 am
That looks like you best meal yet?
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August 23, 2014 at 1:21 pm
They were all good. Always lots of food and fresh. Maybe these are the best pictures I’ve taken of the food. Had to split the table into two photos.
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August 23, 2014 at 8:46 am
I am not going to China now – I have been to EPCOT World Showcase and that is good enough for me!
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August 23, 2014 at 1:22 pm
😀 😀 My mouth dropped open and thought I’d never close it again. Surprised we didn’t lose our supper.
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August 23, 2014 at 9:14 am
The community college where I used to teach had a ‘partnership’ with a college in China (they taught some of our courses and issued our diplomas – in Chinese!) A couple of my colleagues spent a semester each teaching over in China; they were ‘cautioned’ by other teachers who’d been there a while (English speaking fellows from Australia, England and other parts of Canada) to take their own cutlery with them whenever they went out to dinner (and to buy and carry ‘handi wipes’ with them at all times); they were advised that if they found themselves in a restaurant without their own knife and fork, they should thoroughly wipe down whatever was put before them (plates, glasses, cutlery) with the handi-wipes before allowing any food to touch it – apparently cleanliness is NOT next to godliness in most Chinese establishments. It sounds like you are lucky you didn’t get sick while you were there.
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August 23, 2014 at 1:24 pm
Wish someone might have mentioned something like this to us. We were never given knives, only forks and chopsticks. Two choices. Lots of times we needed a knife to cut up stuff but we made do with our forks.
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August 23, 2014 at 9:58 pm
What a very strange thing … especially since I would have to assume many of these ‘restaurants’ regularly serve Westerners.
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August 24, 2014 at 12:33 am
I cannot see my way clear to this being a restaurant even as I look back on it now. NO way. The answer the tour guide gave never felt real. I couldn’t accept it, but you FEEL the line when you have to shut up. ~(~_*)~~
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August 23, 2014 at 9:55 am
It would seem the country put all its money into lavish furniture, then ran out when they got to the bathrooms and kitchen facilities! I must say, Tess, you’re a lot stronger than I would be under the circumstances. Good for you!
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August 23, 2014 at 1:26 pm
Now that I think of it, I can’t believe we gave it a second thought the next morning when we had breakfast at the hotel. We forgot all about it. I must have been more tired than I thought. 🙂
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August 23, 2014 at 11:09 am
This account makes me wonder what the Chinese immune system looks like.
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August 23, 2014 at 1:27 pm
Must be solid because I’m not sure if they drink the water. We were told not to because OUR system wouldn’t take it. We only drank bottled water.
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August 23, 2014 at 11:41 am
I like the furniture. I like the looks of the food. I’ve read many a travel tale of China’s bathrooms….. At this point if I ever traveled to China I would sit in the chairs, eat Clif Bars all day I brought with me and have a 100 gallon bladder by the time I left. 😉
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August 23, 2014 at 1:29 pm
😀 😀
This furniture is OLD and about the bathrooms well, some countries don’t think of them as a priority although all the squats were ceramic (not what I expected).
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August 24, 2014 at 11:58 am
I’ve read lots of travel the world by bike books, the ceramic squats would have been a huge improvement over what those folks used! 🙂
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August 24, 2014 at 1:35 pm
Indeed!
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August 23, 2014 at 8:07 pm
love the photos of the food. wow…..did you just have a couple bites of everything? I think that would fill me up. that’s a LOT of food!! interesting bathroom habits.
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August 24, 2014 at 12:23 am
None of us had any trouble with the food. The flavors were great.
I do believe they had a way of presenting just enough for each person and for a total of eight. None of us went hungry. 😀
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August 23, 2014 at 10:41 pm
Lovely photos and quite a gross tale, lol.
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August 24, 2014 at 12:34 am
Gross is it! ~(~_*)~~
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August 23, 2014 at 11:27 pm
So fascinating and different way to live. They’re used to it, but I wouldn’t want to live that way. We are “spoiled” but not really – it’s what you’re brought up with. All I can say is, it’s so nice to read your posts and look at your photos, but I have no desire to go to China. Following you along on your journey is good enough for me, and I am not missing any of your posts!
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August 24, 2014 at 12:38 am
Thank you for following. I had no idea what to expect. Not all of China gave us the same (obvious) experiences. Funny, we forgot about this one even at breakfast the next morning. How tired were we?
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August 24, 2014 at 2:48 am
Food looks delicious, lucky(?) you didn’t know about the kitchen practices before you ate it. Glad to say the conditions on the camino are a little more sophisticated than you experienced. Great write up, thanks.
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August 24, 2014 at 1:20 pm
Thank you for reading Maggie. I appreciate your kind comments.
Funny thing is the next morning we didn’t give it a second thought about even the hotel kitchen practices. 🙂
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August 24, 2014 at 3:20 pm
I am amazed that you guys escaped without some nasty tummy infections………….. the mind boggles!
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August 25, 2014 at 12:13 pm
Thank goodness for a good gut!
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August 24, 2014 at 5:09 pm
Let’s cut the Crap, we will hang tight together LOL LOL. Let’s also consider ourselves to be the new 40 LOL LOL. It looks like you were having a grand time. The food look great, the facilities left a bit to be desired by I am a big boy and could have handled them just as well as you did. I look forward to reading more about this great adventure. Take care, Bill
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August 25, 2014 at 12:16 pm
Hi Bill. Thanks for the visit. The thing is the next morning this incident was already forgotten. That’s what happens when you’re tired and going full tilt all day long. 😀
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August 25, 2014 at 4:42 am
It’s said that the French have dirty toilets and clean kitchens and the British have clean toilets and dirty kitchens! What of the Chinese? 😀
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August 25, 2014 at 12:20 pm
Neither? 😀
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August 25, 2014 at 4:52 am
I’ve always wondered about the large furniture too, Tess. Thanks for the answer. And the meal looks quite tasty. I do love all your “bathroom humor.” Sometimes all you can do is laugh. 🙂 ~Terri
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August 25, 2014 at 12:21 pm
😀 😀 Thanks for coming along. The two men, one after another were such a contrast and the situation, I had to laugh. What else can one do?
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August 25, 2014 at 6:49 am
Maybe because the food was cooked, you were all OK 🙂
Re the facilities, I have seen many immaculate versions of eastern and western style. But I have also seen many pretty awful versions of both in places where the owners could have provided better. Maybe you just lucked out at this stop 😦
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August 25, 2014 at 12:25 pm
I know. After your comment, I remember a couple of wedding I’ve attended at posh banquet centres. The first time to go to the Ladies, it’s pristine. By the middle of the evening, it looks like a tornado had passed through. 😛
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August 25, 2014 at 9:41 pm
Oh Tess, you are so funny! And always respectful! But you do make me laugh! How funny to have a second storey for decoration! Perhaps it is to do with a culture of displaying abundance in order to manifest it … or something? Lots of love to you 🙂 xox
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August 26, 2014 at 9:30 am
I know. Weird. How do you ask someone to explain THAT? This guide wasn’t as helpful as our first one. 😀
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August 25, 2014 at 10:40 pm
Between the bathroom and the food stories, my aspirations of seeing China are less than they ever were, lol. Though I would have enjoyed the Great Wall and Olympic Park. Interesting about the oversized chairs.
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August 26, 2014 at 9:38 am
I know about the chairs. Would any one of them be able to touch the floor if they sat back in the chairs? We saw the royal bed chambers and they were for SHORT people. Nothing jived for me.
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August 26, 2014 at 11:22 am
I might have been happy on the chairs then. I definitely be a short person, lol.
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August 26, 2014 at 4:24 pm
😀 😀 😀
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August 26, 2014 at 1:15 am
That’s so funny that the locals found 25 celsius cold!
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August 26, 2014 at 9:39 am
From the day we arrived you’d see everyone bundled up like it was a cold fall instead of warm spring and definitely long sleeved tops. Well, jackets.
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August 26, 2014 at 9:17 am
Oh I can relate to the facilities not having seats. I spent a day not drinking anything just because I didn’t want to go the awful lavatory on the island we were visiting. I would rather have squatted behind a tree I tell you 😀 Great post Tess.
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August 26, 2014 at 9:46 am
Sigh. The little things we take for granted until we can’t have them. ❤
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August 26, 2014 at 6:44 pm
I think I’d rather see China in a National Geographic special at home with clean bathroom, kitchen and my own cooking . With those types of “thrones” no wonder so many of their dynasties fell.
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August 26, 2014 at 8:30 pm
I had no idea what this adventure had for me. 🙂
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August 26, 2014 at 7:04 pm
Well- it certainly would be difficult worrying about the sanitation methods. Hard to put that out of your mind when you are there to enjoy a meal.
The meal does look wonderful though!
Wonder why that restaurant was picked? Family perhaps? Fun to ponder.
Amazing to read about your adventures Tess! Thank you so much for sharing.
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August 26, 2014 at 8:32 pm
The have deals with restaurants somewhere in the vicinity of where the morning tour as well as the afternoon one. They don’t change the hotels. The tour schedule and meal location probably haven’t changed in a long. time. 🙂
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August 26, 2014 at 11:31 pm
So sorry we’ve been ghosts as of late. We’ve been locked away in our writing room working on our book for the past few months but are reaching the finish line soon which means we’ll be able to get back to our blogging buds like you!! Now onto the post: Eeks!! There are so many things wrong about that!!! lmao 😉 I would have been nervous as Hell!! But then I’m the type of gal who whines at a camping trip! “I can’t squat in the woods!” “You really expect me to bathe in that river?!” Pampered prima-donna! So these kind of conditions would have had me throwing a tantrum for some clean, PRIVATE bathrooms and some hand sanitizer!! Although the food looks fan-freaking-tastic, I would have been leery of trying it once the first kitchen staff came out unclean!!! lmao~ 😉 Great post!!! 😉
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August 27, 2014 at 6:25 pm
We had already finished supper when we witnessed the ‘incident’.
I’m jealous you’ve locked out the world to work on your writing. Way to go. Wonderful for you.
Thank you for taking time out to read and respond in depth like this. I sooooo appreciate it. ❤
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August 27, 2014 at 7:08 am
Wow…that is troubling. I was going to say the food looked really yummy but after reading about your bathroom observations (and experiences) I’m not so sure! Although I do have to say I have noticed here in the toilets of pubs and restaurants, it isn’t uncommon to see women leave their cubicle and head out to their table without so much as touching the sink…utterly gross. But even worse when it’s the staff, like that young teen…
Still, gave rise to another wonderfully entertaining post this Tess. Each week I read your installment and I wonder what shocks and surprises you’ll be sharing next! Fabulous 😛 ❤
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August 27, 2014 at 6:44 pm
Thank you for taking the time to read and comment. I enjoy sharing and the commentary I’ve received. I am enjoying my trip all over again. I do admit, I do notice the unusual. It’s like it comes looking for me. ‘Hey, look. I’m over here.” ❤ ❤ ❤
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August 28, 2014 at 10:54 am
I love how you pick out the unusual…it’s what makes you such a great writer and observer of life…they go hand in hand my friend 🙂 ❤ 😀
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August 28, 2014 at 11:10 am
Nice of you to say, but I think it’s the usual is attracted to me and jumps out for me to see so I don’t miss it. Ha ha.
On the other hand, I believe I get this from my mother. She was a fabulous observer. ❤ ❤
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August 28, 2014 at 12:16 pm
😀 ❤ 😀
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August 27, 2014 at 7:06 pm
Tess – We’ve been told all the world is an adventure and although that’s a cliche, it’s still much the same as always. The bathroom situations are often the same in the US as they are in foreign countries. I’ve seen some I wouldn’t consider entering.
On a tour such as yours, you learn to go with the flow and make the best of what you see and experience. I learned early on that tours held many advantages for the traveler. Often, if I was unsure about what I was doing or even thinking about what I was doing, I always tried to take at least a 3 – 5 day tour into the country I wanted to spend time in alone. It helped me get my bearings better and the ‘flavor’ of the country if you will.
You are doing a bang up job on this travel blog. Have you thought of submitting a proposal to the USAA magazine (a magazine for the 55+ crowd) or any of the travel magazines. Think about it. How many single women take a trip to China when they don’t even like to travel on the highway near their own home?
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August 27, 2014 at 8:03 pm
I don’t know when I let the cat out of the bag about not traveling on the highway near my home but it’s true. I’m a wuss. Still I did take the trip and am glad I did. I think as travelers, the differences we encounter at any given country is part of the travel experience. The unusual seems to attract my eye. 😀 I enjoy recounting my travel because I get to relive my trip again.
Yes, I have considered writing about my trip–just haven’t done it yet. Keep pushing it to the back burner. Thank YOU, though, for your nudge. :-3
Keep well and am pleased you’re able to drop by and chat. I do enjoy your visits and comments. Thanks again.
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August 28, 2014 at 9:31 am
Wow! Talk about real culture shock!
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August 28, 2014 at 10:59 am
*nods*
For the most part, there is most likely a lot which was not for foreigner’s eyes.
Thank you for reading and commenting. 🙂
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August 29, 2014 at 3:37 pm
I am thinking to myself, you Tess, you are a brave brave woman. But, you know what they say, “when in Rome so I guess, when in Luoyang”.
I do so love your travels. The pictures you have chosen are perfect to illustrate the differences. Instead of just the ‘pretty’, you are showing also the, well yeah not so much. Great job.
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September 12, 2014 at 3:24 pm
Sometimes when you’re in a situation, you just get on with it, and then later think “Yuck!” Like if you’re camping or something, you sometimes just have to lower your standards and accept it!
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September 12, 2014 at 7:07 pm
Yup. You have to go with the flow. 😛
Thanks for reading, Vanessa, and for commenting as well. I am honored.
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September 15, 2014 at 9:29 am
I grew up in Hong Kong. Your description brought it all back to me. Very vivid, I could almost smell it. 😉
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September 15, 2014 at 11:47 am
Awesome. Thank you. Glad this brought back memories.
❤ Good ones, I hope.
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December 14, 2014 at 1:53 pm
Food and toilets. The eternal preoccupations of the beleaguered traveller.
Still enjoying the armchair travelling 🙂
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December 14, 2014 at 3:25 pm
Nice to see you again, K. Glad you still enjoying the tour.
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April 11, 2015 at 8:18 pm
Oh my goodness – the food looks like the best, the potty looks the absolute worst!
Years ago we ate at one of the best regarded restaurants in Tiajuana, just over the California border. The place was packed with Americans ordering tons of food. Half way through the meal we found out there was no water in the restaurant. No water to flush toilets, no water for filling glasses, and we figured out, no water for washing anything at all. So how did all our meals get cooked? And on what dishes were they served? Haven’t been back since. Still, we’re all alive. Different cultures, different priorities indeed. LOL!
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April 12, 2015 at 12:13 pm
Isn’t it extraordinary how some cultures don’t give cleanliness a second thought. Yuck.
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