We woke at 6:25, dressed without showering and headed for early breakfast. After the cancelled excursions the past two days, I noticed passengers appeared antsy to go on the Shibaozhai trip, scheduled for 7:45 a.m., weather permitting. No cancellation was announced at breakfast. By the time we arrived in our rooms, a reminder blared over the PA to anyone leaving the ship to pick up a ship’s pass. The tour was on.
or
Sue proceeded to take a shower after breakfast as I plopped into the chair at the desk. The outing hadn’t interested me because of the damp drizzle with or without an umbrella.
My heart stopped. I glanced out the balcony doors and gulped. A ship coasted towards us and I knew we were going to crash. I leaped to my feet. I don’t know why. Not unlike a pillar of cement, I froze poker straight expecting the inevitable crash. We were going to die and there was nothing to do about it.
The drifting stopped mere inches away. How did they do that? Everything trickled rain: the balcony floor, the railings and chairs. I read the name on the side: President Cruise. It was smaller than ours, old and rusty. Curtains hung haphazardly missing hooks on rods. Clothes lines strung with laundry crisscrossed inside the rooms so close I could have reached across and pulled them off—maybe not quite—but too close for comfort. The Chinese passengers who came out on the back deck (the poop deck, I think) to see what was happening didn’t appear well-off.
A third ship moved alongside the second one, bigger than both of us: the Century Emerald. It drew closer and closer. The curtains pulled back, windows on the main deck revealed a fancy dining-room featuring round tables draped with milk-white cloths and bright yellow chair covers featuring bows on the back. The third ship floated towards the one between us. I waited for the crunch. It didn’t come. I watched a female cleaner (maid?) wipe down the railings on one of the balconies. What a hard worker, but why bother with this useless task?
The fumes were suffocating and the engines noisy even through the closed door.
The Chinese boat moved away in the opposite direction. Once again I held my breath as the Century Emerald inched towards us so close I could almost touch their balcony railings if I stepped out and leaned forward. A few curious international passengers on the Emerald watched us for a while. I wondered which of us were watchers watching the watchers. Soon, they returned to their rooms and closed the curtains. Maybe we weren’t that interesting.
The temperature in our room reached a high of 24, the highest since we boarded. I opened our curtains and doors again for fresh air, but not for long. The noisy engines were deafening. Why run them? Weren’t we anchored? The ships remained side-by side like strangers on a first date.
Sue lay on the bed reading with her swollen feet up on the headboard (actually the mirror above it). She’d suspected the moveable bubble above her toes might be blood. If she’d had a needle, she’d have drawn out the liquid. I suggested she see the ship’s doctor, but she refused.
Twice in ten minutes, Housekeeping came to make up our room. We offered to do it ourselves, but that wasn’t allowed. I noticed I’d become lazy since we boarded. What’s wrong with some down time after all the running around we did the first eight or nine days after our arrival in China?
A Captain’s Bridge Tour was announced over the PA, but I felt too lazy to move. Maybe I was still feeling the effects of our near crash. A different language presentation was scheduled every quarter hour from 10:00 to 11:15 in French, English, Chinese, Spanish and German—not specifically in that order. The interruptions soon became a nuisance.
* * *
Next on January 23rd: On the Yangtze Day 16, Part 7 (Ghost City and Stairway to Hell) + More
For more related posts, click on China tab at the top of the page
© 2015 All Right Reserved Tess @ How the Cookie
January 16, 2015 at 7:10 pm
Scary near collisions. Sounds like you needed the downtime, nothing wrong with that at all. 🙂
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January 16, 2015 at 7:26 pm
It is fascinating how lethargy can set in the less you do. I wondered if there’s a chemical reason for t? maybe all those fumes. Reading the last few posts there’s an interminable feel to never getting off the boat, like you in a loop. A bit like an Iain Bankes novel called ‘The Bridge’ here the main character never seems to stop crossing this bridge. It becomes spookier and spookier. Is that what we are in for, I wonder?
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January 16, 2015 at 8:19 pm
I’m not surprised you noticed. It’s been a drag with the rotten weather and being cooped up with no-where to go. Another post or two and I’ll be back on Terra Ferma. Thanks so much for your comments. I’m pleased you’re paying attention. 🙂
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January 16, 2015 at 7:27 pm
Ever since you boarded this ship I have been waiting for something bad………………. I hope that was the worst of it!
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January 16, 2015 at 8:21 pm
As you can see nothing much has been happening. About all those cruise ships, I don’t think that was an accident waiting to happen. There must have been a reason but, of course, no-one tells the passengers anything.
The lethargy and boredom will be replaced soon. ❤
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January 17, 2015 at 7:49 am
I hope the replacement is not danger filled drama!!!!
It doesn’t sound like, in China, they feel a need to explain anything to anyone.
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January 17, 2015 at 11:06 am
Everything is hush-hush. I’m not sure this was a mistake at all. Most likely there was some good reason for it. I just realized the rest of our group had gone on the outing and don’t even know about this ‘happening’ till they read it on my blog. 😀 😀
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January 16, 2015 at 8:00 pm
Well, I’m glad the ships didn’t crash into yours, but if they had, it probably would’ve nipped that lethargy and ennui in the bud. Switched it to chaos and panic. 😉
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January 16, 2015 at 8:22 pm
The post dragged me down a little bit. Soon, we’ll be out of the soup and on terra firma again soon. Next post actually–for a while. ❤
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January 16, 2015 at 8:48 pm
Terra firma is a treat when one’s been on a ship for a while. 🙂
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January 16, 2015 at 11:51 pm
No crashes, though river captains surely do know their stuff. Kinda exciting when you think about it. You had my heart going for a minute there.
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January 17, 2015 at 2:30 am
I have witnesses something similar in Greece but these skippers seem to know what they are doing. Looks like a lot of rain! Is there a high rainfall average in that part of China?
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January 17, 2015 at 2:33 am
The windows in that other boat look like some sleazy motel! Glad it didn’t crash, amazing how they control that with those huge vessels in water! It sounds like this boat wasn’t the most fun part of the trip. I see from the other comments that you’ll be back on land in a couple of posts! 🙂
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January 17, 2015 at 4:26 am
Being a naughty cynical kind of girl, I wonder if its a ‘let’s see how many tourists will scream’ game 🙂 🙂 🙂
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January 17, 2015 at 11:01 am
😀 😀 Once my heart started beating again, I guess I thought at least life wasn’t THAT dull on the ship. 😀
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January 17, 2015 at 7:43 am
Reblogged this on Smorgasbord – Variety is the spice of life and commented:
This week’s post about the cruise on the Yangtze by Tess on How the Cookie Crumbles reads more like Pirates of the Caribbean… close encounters with other ships (for comfort) stifling heat but the stunning Red Pagoda…. love it.
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January 17, 2015 at 7:45 am
Great job as always Tess and I have nominated you in my award today fully aware that you are award free. All my awards from now on will also have a bouquet of flowers included that you can accept instead…. they also are a token of my love and respect for your kindness to me and others here on WordPress.. https://smorgasbordinvitation.wordpress.com/2015/01/17/the-award-season-continues-with-the-the-hearts-as-one-drum-beat-award/
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January 17, 2015 at 11:04 am
Thank YOU, Sally. YOU should be receiving a huge bouquet of flowers for the kindness and support you have shown ME. You must be the most generous person I’ve met on the blogosphere. Thank YOU! {{{ ❤ }}}
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January 17, 2015 at 11:09 am
Great Tess and it offers me an opportunity to say thank you with flowers… hugs ♥
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January 17, 2015 at 8:09 am
Tess, you truly have the heart of an adventurer. Mega-hugs! ❤ 😀
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January 17, 2015 at 10:05 am
By the way… my copy of “Palpable Imaginings” arrived. Can’t wait to sit down with it. 🙂
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January 17, 2015 at 11:13 am
Hope you’re not disappointed. I have two stories in there. ❤
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January 17, 2015 at 11:08 am
Moi? I sure try to turn up the drama! 😀 😀 😀
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January 17, 2015 at 9:07 am
Sounds like a traffic jam at port! Traveling can be exhausting. Down time is a good thing.
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January 17, 2015 at 11:09 am
Three days on the boat and I began to feel antsy. We’ll be off soon, and out and about.
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January 17, 2015 at 12:36 pm
Tess this cruise is beginning to sound like a test of nerve patience and endurance!! 😉 ❤
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January 17, 2015 at 1:41 pm
You could say that. 😦
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January 17, 2015 at 1:45 pm
I´m sure it was good to have some down time.
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January 17, 2015 at 2:43 pm
Yes and no. Time to move around soon. 😀
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January 17, 2015 at 10:02 pm
How scary and yet thrilling, all this adventure!
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January 18, 2015 at 12:10 pm
It’s such a blur when I look back but this particular situation still makes my heart stop. 🙂
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January 18, 2015 at 1:26 am
Tess – I love the drama and knowing I’m not the only one that gets antsy cooped up aboard a ship. I like the additional descriptive visuals you gave us with this posting.
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January 18, 2015 at 12:13 pm
😛 😛 A friend asked if I’d go on a cruise with her but I can’t see spending all that money to fly, sail, stop at different places for a while and fly home again in 8 days.
I want to go to New Orleans but my friend and I can’t co-ordinate our calendars. Sheesh.
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January 18, 2015 at 6:52 am
Apart from small fishing boats, the only one of reasonable size Ive been was a junk, over night on Halong Bay, Vietnam. Glad you and Sue got out this pickle unharmed. x
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January 18, 2015 at 12:23 pm
I’ve read other comments and seems this isn’t all that unusual. That ships captains are capable of this ‘closeness’. Have no idea what that was all about.
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January 18, 2015 at 10:36 am
I know from my daughter’s time aboard a Cruiser that ships can get awfully close without a problem. She had a word for it, but it escapes me. Looking forward to the next installment.
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January 18, 2015 at 12:27 pm
I wish I knew the reason for this ‘huddle’. Made no sense to me, but it’s all over now. 🙂
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January 18, 2015 at 5:13 pm
I love being on a boat/ship for short cruises, but since I can’t swim, this kind of thing would set me on edge.
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January 18, 2015 at 7:01 pm
I don’t swim either, at least not since I learned as a child. As well, I don’t like water, especially deep water. 😦
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January 18, 2015 at 7:51 pm
A near crash would be scary!! Glad it all worked out okay.
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January 18, 2015 at 8:14 pm
Me too, but I now do not believe this was an accident. There must have been a reason for all this but I have no clue what it might have been.
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January 19, 2015 at 12:32 pm
I know it makes you wonder what was going on!
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January 19, 2015 at 12:34 pm
Nobody tells us foreigners anything. Sigh. 😦
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January 20, 2015 at 12:21 pm
I know – I like details!!
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January 20, 2015 at 1:03 pm
Me too.
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January 18, 2015 at 8:31 pm
Loving your tale here Tess. The suspense you weave into your stories never seizes to capture my attention all the way through. The approaching ship would have scared the bejeebees out of me too! Glad you are home safe. 🙂
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January 18, 2015 at 9:40 pm
Your time on the ship seems kind of interminable. I probably would have been stir crazy. I’m very bad with down time and ‘not doing.’
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January 19, 2015 at 8:27 am
After all the go-go-go in the beginning, it was good but not as exciting.
A friend asked if I’d be interested in going on a cruise with her. I can’t see the point. ❤ Maybe I've been put off.
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January 19, 2015 at 8:34 am
Hubby is always gushing about going on one; his mom lives for them. Me? IDK, I might be with you on that one, but a cruise that offers lots to do–like onboard tennis courts 😀 –might be a whole ‘nother ball of wax!
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January 19, 2015 at 8:40 am
I might mind one of those which travel at night and stop off in different countries, but for longer than a couple hours. Sigh.
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January 19, 2015 at 8:50 am
How about a short one? Four-day-three-night deals with a reputable line? (My mom-in-law LOVES Carnival.) Just a thought!
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January 19, 2015 at 12:20 pm
If I’m going to fly that far to get on a ship, I want to get my money’s worth. Too expensive for such a short trip. Know what I mean. Sigh.
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January 19, 2015 at 6:09 pm
I didn’t think of that. You’re right and I can relate. I have family in Florida. I’m sure we’d have a place to crash, but flights for four ain’t cheap.
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January 19, 2015 at 7:12 pm
Sigh. There’s no free lunch anymore, is there?
No cheap flights either. Makes me nuts how cheap flights are in Europe (to other European destinations)
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January 19, 2015 at 9:28 am
Wow, scary! I agree about feeling antsy when you’re on a boat for any length of time. We went on a cruise years and years ago – it was the Canberra just back from the Falklands and the cabins were basic to say the least although it was supposed to have had a refurb. The first thing I did was buy an air freshener 😀 I think that put me off cruises. Thanks for sharing the pagoda pictures – it looked amazing!
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January 19, 2015 at 12:23 pm
I’m pleased you enjoyed the pagoda pictures. 😀 I later wished I’d gone, the wet miserable weather had me preferring to stay inside. 😦
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January 19, 2015 at 2:42 pm
Nothing’s much fun in that weather
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January 19, 2015 at 4:45 pm
That’s true. I did get some reading done, though.
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January 19, 2015 at 4:59 pm
I’ll amend that…reading is fun 😉
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January 19, 2015 at 5:50 pm
😀 😀 😀 No amendment necessary.
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January 20, 2015 at 9:47 am
Yikes, what a frightening experience. So glad the crash was averted. Hopefully you still had some of that wine left in your room…that’s where I would have headed, ha 😀 You tell it so well Tess, I think I need to get a glass myself…and it’s only 2.45 in the afternoon, LOL 😀 😛 🙄
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January 20, 2015 at 12:59 pm
I think this was done on purpose but to what end, I have no idea. 🙂
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January 20, 2015 at 1:58 pm
My goodness! All the memories you have.
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January 20, 2015 at 2:11 pm
You mean the scary ones? 😀 😀 😀 Yeah.
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January 20, 2015 at 2:52 pm
You had me captivated with your cruise ship experiences here…thank you. 🙂
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January 20, 2015 at 4:02 pm
Glad to hear You are captivated. 😀 Thank you.
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January 20, 2015 at 9:28 pm
Wow. It sounds like the boats are preparing for a drag race.
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January 21, 2015 at 7:16 am
I’m glad they didn’t 😀 😀 😀
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