L’Anse Amour (near the Quebec border) is the smallest, most northerly community, and the National Historic Site of Canada.
The HMS_Raleigh ran aground here in 1922, a huge embarrassment to the British. The Davis family (a community of seven) took in the 700 men who survived (11 died) though they had no means of housing and feeding such a large number. The sailors salvaged all they could from the ship even the piano. Men slept on the shore (anywhere and everywhere) and some later stayed for a couple months after the British rescue ship arrived. The British Admiralty granted land to the Davis Family, in perpetuity as well as the cove itself, for their selfless deed.
Flash forward to 2012 and the 90-year-old-wreckage.
Only ten Davises live in L’anse Amour now. This is the Davis Family Graveyard.
Built in 1858, the Point Amour lighthouse is the tallest lighthouse in Atlantic Canada and the second highest in the country. If you’re interested in others or their histories, click here.
The lighthouse has a gift shop on the first floor (of course). The furniture on this floor had been removed to make room for the displays / models and to accommodate busloads of tourists passing through.
The furnishings of the day as well as sample clothing were displayed on the second floor. This main building had no bathroom facilities though the demand was high. Anyone wanting to use them had to walk a good distance in a blustery wind to another building away from the main attraction.
Below, a model of the lighthouse:
The stairway to the top wasn’t what I’d expected. A guide led small groups at a time, but how had they fit? Mary and I were last—just us three. The stairs weren’t what I had expected either. They were steep, did not snake, but were vertical and had six landings. The last two levels were ladders, not stairs as the space had gradually became smaller and narrower as we worked our way to the top. Why? I had not thought to ask, but I wonder if it had to do with the lighthouse platform (with the saving light) and the space for it. Cannot find the answer.
Shedding light on a landing in this dark tower along the way up.
The last couple sets of ladder rungs were so tight (and vertical), no way could I turn around if I had to. Legs quaking, we huffed and puffed our way to the top: 132 steps and 109 feet up. What a view! (I had to scrap a number of pictures, which reflected the photographer in the glass).
* * *
Next on February 19th: About Whales and Fishing and Fish Oil, Oh My! (day 4 continued)
© 2015 Tess @ How the Cookie Crumbles.
For more related posts, click on Newfoundland / Labrador tab at the top of the page.
February 12, 2016 at 7:52 pm
Wow Tess what a trek. So interesting.
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February 16, 2016 at 5:45 pm
Wow, Paulette. I can’t believe I made it all the way up. I’m usually not that kind of adventurous: bad knees, fear of heights etc. ❤ ❤
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February 12, 2016 at 7:57 pm
Sounds like an interesting place to visit. Quite the history. Bet you worked up an appetite climbing those steps!
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February 16, 2016 at 5:43 pm
Seems we ate a lot and not because I was hungry, When food was put in front of me., I didn’t ask any questions.
Yes, tons of history, but then no matter where you travel, there will be that, which is different from your own. 🙂 ❤
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February 12, 2016 at 7:59 pm
wow 132 steps! My legs would be wobbly lol
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February 16, 2016 at 5:41 pm
I’m glad no one told me beforehand. Now…NOW, I feel I did done good. 😀 😀
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February 12, 2016 at 8:23 pm
Okay… that’s a lot of stairs. Lighthouses have such a mystique. Thanks for bringing us along to this one Tess. Mega hugs!
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February 16, 2016 at 5:40 pm
Thank you, Teagan. Ignorance is bliss indeed. Also hurry, hurry if you want this chance. No thinking and the deed gets done. 😀 😀
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February 12, 2016 at 8:25 pm
Tess, this is one of the most interesting parts of your travels. I loved the story of the baby and was able to read the monument in French with only a few translation hiccups – bone whistle and walrus tusk especially. What a grand burial for an infant, with accoutrements for the next world. I wonder if he was a prince? I can imagine his family’s devastation at his death. The story of the ship wreck reminds me of the film “The Russians are Coming, the Russians are Coming” with Alan Arkin. And the lighthouse – can you imagine having to climb up and down that tower several times a day to keep the light lit? I might be tempted to let the ship captains figure it out on their own once in a while – LOL. I hope you have another vacation planned – your travelogue is fascinating.
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February 16, 2016 at 5:38 pm
Sharon, your comments warm my heart. Pleased you want to come along. I love reliving my trip because I get to find things I’d almost missed or scribbled about but it didn’t sink in. I can’t put my finger on exactly why this particular trip excites me still.
I sit on my butt all day long at home, when I get out I get b.r.a.v.e. Eke. Heights scare me. I cannot believe I climbed to the top. Of course, no one made an announcement about the number of steps beforehand. 😀
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February 12, 2016 at 8:31 pm
Gorgeous natural pictures, and a great story. Some people are amazing.
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February 16, 2016 at 5:33 pm
Ha ha. Do you mean this cookie’s still got what it takes?
NFL has tons of photo opportunities.
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February 12, 2016 at 8:36 pm
Thanks for writing this.
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February 16, 2016 at 5:27 pm
Thanks, Linda. Glad you want to tag along. Writing about this trip here lets me relive it all over again and find out things I didn’t remember taking place. No. Not drunk again. Overwhelmed. 😀 😀 😀
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February 12, 2016 at 8:59 pm
I can imagine how tough it was to get to the top. The pictures are fabulous.
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February 16, 2016 at 5:26 pm
Thanks, John. There wasn’t room to look down and no-one mentioned how many stairs we had ahead of us.
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February 16, 2016 at 6:27 pm
I can see that.
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February 12, 2016 at 10:25 pm
I LOVE lighthouses, the history associated with them and imagining the lightkeeper’s (and family’s) life. I know what you mean about the tops of those staircases–I just try to look straight ahead while going down or I really get nervous :0
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February 16, 2016 at 5:25 pm
I never looked down. There wasn’t room! 😀
I can’t imagine going up and down, and up and down, then watching the waves slosh up and down, and up and down…
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February 16, 2016 at 10:46 pm
From what I’ve read about the lightkeeper’s (and family’s) life, it was LONELY. But still intriguing, from this writer’s POV anyway 😉
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February 13, 2016 at 12:36 am
Wonderful photos, Tess! Quite a trek to the top though! Not sure it was that safe! Look forward to the next travel post! Happy Valentine’s Day, my friend!
💛 Elizabeth
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February 16, 2016 at 5:23 pm
Thanks, Elizabeth. If there had been mention of the number of stairs beforehand or if I had had time to think about it, I don’t believe I’d have tried it. Now I feel this old cookie accomplished something. Ha!
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February 13, 2016 at 12:58 am
I dont know if I would make it but I would certainly try climbing just for the view.. 😉
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February 16, 2016 at 5:22 pm
i’m not athletic, nor in shape but I had to try it–just one time. Didn’t think I’d make it though. 😀
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February 17, 2016 at 1:46 am
next time!!! ey.. 😉
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February 13, 2016 at 2:03 am
It all seems so lonely and desolate. But I love it, and if I were 40 years younger I’d want to live there!
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February 16, 2016 at 5:21 pm
It IS fantastic: clean, fresh air, raw and rugged shores, lots of cod to eat and people who would give a stranger the only shirt on their back. ❤
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February 13, 2016 at 2:51 am
You’re such a trooper Tess! 132 steps, you go girl! Excellent share as always. 🙂
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February 16, 2016 at 5:19 pm
Ha. It’s a good thing no one mentioned how many steps there were. 😀 Guess the old cookie’s still got it.
In China we climbed 500 steps to ‘Hell”. After every hundred or so 😀 we had a plateau.
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February 17, 2016 at 11:50 am
Oh ya girl, you still got it!! ❤
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February 13, 2016 at 3:36 am
Fascinating and lovely pictures.
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February 16, 2016 at 5:17 pm
Thank you, Rosie. Don’t know where my gumption came from.
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February 13, 2016 at 5:14 am
Sounds quite a climb. If you go to Rome ever try the visit to the top of St Peter’s Basilica, it is equally as arduous!
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February 16, 2016 at 5:17 pm
Yes it was quite a climb, and especially steep. In China I managed to climb 500 steps to ‘Hell’ on a hot afternoon with a couple boatloads of other silly people. 😀
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February 13, 2016 at 5:34 am
My, you do get around, Tess. This is fascinating.Jx
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February 16, 2016 at 5:14 pm
Ha ha. Had I had time to think about it, I probably wouldn’t have gone past the first set of stairs and chickened out.
Wonderful to have you along, Judith. ❤ 😀
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February 13, 2016 at 5:36 am
What an interesting place. I love light houses and have only been to the top of a couple of them. Those stairs sound a bit scary. I would manage going up OK but always have trouble going down for some reason.
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February 16, 2016 at 5:13 pm
Ha ha I thought coming down would be easier but NO room to look where you’re going. It was like climbing into an abyss, but now I’m glad I did it. Don’t know what got into me. Heights make me ill and well–my knees aren’t as elastic as they once were. ❤ ❤
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February 13, 2016 at 5:55 am
The lighthouses are fascinating, my son’s in Nova Scotia at the moment, and a regular lighthouse visitor!
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February 16, 2016 at 5:09 pm
Wow. Is your son checking them all out as entertainment or is it a job thing?
Yes, it was scary but when would I have this chance again? I surprised myself more than anything. ❤
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February 16, 2016 at 6:09 pm
My son’s a missionary in Nova Scotia, but on his days off they’ve been seeing the sights and there are lots of lighthouses! It seems that here in Wales we have castles around every corner and Eastern Canada has lighthouses! So cool.
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February 16, 2016 at 6:19 pm
I believe that’s exciting. Yes, they have lots to see. I was at Peggy’s Cove in the early 80s but didn’t get anywhere near the lighthouse. How boring was i then?
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February 13, 2016 at 8:31 am
I would have enjoyed this Tess, though I am a bit leery of heights I still would have done it. Wobbly legs too. It sure looks worth it. I love the story about the Davis’.
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February 16, 2016 at 5:08 pm
The Davises still live there and are the only family in this tiny community. I tried to find more on them but the internet stayed mum.
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February 16, 2016 at 8:38 pm
I love their history. I think it’s wonderful they are still there. Glad the internet doesn’t know everything. 😉
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February 13, 2016 at 10:27 am
Great job on the hike up those ‘stairs’! Good for you to make the trek up!
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February 16, 2016 at 5:07 pm
When would I have another opportunity. I hate heights. Okay, I’ve admitted it.
I had to have something to show off in front of you, Sue, the mountaineer and cliff climber and world biker rider… and non ‘fraidy cat person. 😀 😀
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February 16, 2016 at 11:11 pm
Well good for you Tess! You did me proud!!
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February 13, 2016 at 1:49 pm
That was well worth the climb wasn’t it? Well done you, it would kill my knees!
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February 16, 2016 at 5:04 pm
My knees aren’t great either. All the elasticity left years ago. I believe I was too freaking scared to think about anything but breathing and shaking. 😀 😀
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February 13, 2016 at 7:21 pm
Your photos bring out the purity of NFL. 🙂
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February 16, 2016 at 5:02 pm
I confess I’m still attached to it. All that water and clean air and so much less hustle and bustle. Loved it. The people are so jolly and friendly. They work hard and like to laugh to loosen up.
Thanks for reading, Carol. Wonderful to have you along. ❤
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February 14, 2016 at 1:02 am
Anyone sneak back and try on those clothes? Cool trip.
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February 14, 2016 at 1:40 am
Very interesting, but gosh those stairs! My Neil volunteers at a local windmill/museum, and it hadn’t occurred to me before how similar windmills and lighthouses are inside.
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February 16, 2016 at 5:00 pm
That’s what Willow said as well. This was my first time. When would I get another chance? Nerves of steel. Legs like jelly. 😀 😀 Heights make me sick. Can’t believe I done dooed it. 😀
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February 14, 2016 at 9:17 am
This is another fantastic trip! I have never been in a lighthouse but I have been in a windmill in Holland and was very similar by the sounds of it!!
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February 16, 2016 at 4:56 pm
Yes, from what’s been said around here sounds windmills and lighthouse ARE similar. I wasn’t too keep on all that climbing and being so FAR off the ground.
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February 16, 2016 at 5:29 pm
OH! I would love to travel with you!!
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February 14, 2016 at 10:40 am
Great photos, Tess. I especially love the lighthouse. I always wished I could live in one with the fabulous views they have. The stairs would do me in now though 😀 😀
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February 16, 2016 at 4:54 pm
I can’t imagine being a lighthouse keeper. Up and down. Up and down. As well as looking at the waves during a storm. Up and down. Up and down. 😀 😀
Thanks, Cathy. I’ve always been fascinated. Once may be enough for me. I can’t believe I made it to the top. Coming down was easier.
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February 17, 2016 at 1:57 am
I bet it was easier! 😀
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February 14, 2016 at 12:57 pm
I love travelling, though lately it is little difficult for me, this kind of trips are interesting, not only as you can meet people from other part in our world but visiting interesting places like this which belong to the History of the country. For a while I haven´t answer anything in your blog… hace you changed the sistem?
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February 14, 2016 at 1:12 pm
Sorry to hear it is difficult for you to travel. No matter where we go, history will surround us. 😀
What is the sistem?
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February 14, 2016 at 1:00 pm
Don’t know if you can read it, my name monts ago was Rosa Ave Fénix.
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February 14, 2016 at 1:12 pm
Oh yes. I remember. 🙂
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February 14, 2016 at 9:50 pm
Canada is on my hit list!
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February 16, 2016 at 4:52 pm
Come ooonn over. I’ll meet you at the airport! 😀
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February 15, 2016 at 6:32 am
I am so impressed you climbed to the top! What a view. Fascinating history. Your travels thrill me. I think the weather up there would deter me, does it get better?
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February 16, 2016 at 4:52 pm
I’m impressed I climbed all the way. I don’t like heights, but when would I get another opportunity?
I’m pleased you’re enjoying my travels, Val. Nice to have you along.
The weather was good until the night of the morning we arrived. The storm on the Atlantic side started all that rain and drizzle. No, it didn’t change for the duration, but on the morning the tour guide drove us to the airport he said the forecast was for sun, sun, sun and warm temperatures. Bah. ❤
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February 15, 2016 at 10:31 am
I love lighthouses. We visited several in N Z which all see,med to be tourist destinations. And yes they all taper don’t they.
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February 16, 2016 at 4:47 pm
I had no idea they all taper .This was my first one. I HAD to climb to the top because not to miss this experience. Heights aren’t my thing. I’m amazed I made it.
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February 16, 2016 at 4:24 am
I also love lighthouses and thanks for the historical snippet. Fascinating place, even with the inconvenience and scary stairs… Looking forward to more!
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February 16, 2016 at 4:49 pm
Thanks so much, Olga. I’ve always been fascinated by lighthouses but never in my wildest dreams thought I’d ever find myself inside one. Exciting. I can’t imagine being a lighthouse keeper. Up and down. Up and down. ❤
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