How the Cookie Crumbles

Life and scribbles on the far side of SIXTY-FIVE



Views along the road to Twillingate on our way to view a lighthouse

Stopped at Long Point Lighthouse at Twillingate to stretch our legs and for picture-taking. Constructed in 1876, it is under 50 feet tall and built more than 300 feet above sea level.


Lunch had only one server yet again but the food arrived hot.. Because of the cold (again), I was anxious for a hot drink, but the coffee was slow coming. Shrimp on a croissant, fresh homemade fried potato chips and a smidge of limp green lettuce with lots of grated carrot were offered. For dessert, two small tarts each, a loganberry and the other, blueberry. Eh.

With 90 minutes to kill, we had plenty of time to explore.

St. Peter’s Anglican Church is 200 years old and one of the oldest wooden churches in Newfoundland. The oil lamps inside came from England. The pine in the English church came from Twillingate. The English wanted their lamps back. St. Peter’s agreed they could have them if England sent back the pine. No exchange was made.

St. Peter’s Cemetery is behind a fence and locked gate, situated behind the museum, and trails to the sea. This is both the old and current graveyard. Ninety-eight percent of the headstones are white. We couldn’t get close enough to read, but someone takes good care of this graveyard. Inside the museum is a complete record of headstones in the cemeteries in Twillingate and New World Island.

On our way to investigate the cemetery, we passed a woman with a couple large Ziploc bags. Mary called out to ask what she’d found. She straightened to show picked loganberries and partridge berries. We talked briefly, but she wanted to get back to work as it had begun to drizzle. A door-less root cellar beckoned high off the road. Though I scrambled towards it, the fall grass and weeds were slippery and I slid. Mary made it. She entered the space, which was littered with cigarette butts, empty pop cans and beer bottles, and the remnants of a camp fire or a few. She didn’t hang around long.


I noted plants by the side of the road, which I knew to be blueberry bushes. Sure enough, like the woman picking berries behind us, we plucked handfuls to enjoy immediately. What an unexpected pleasure. Too bad neither of us had a container of any sort.

Twillingate Museum and Craft Store stands back  down the same side road. behind the church. It used to be St. Peter’s rectory. Inside, the rooms are decorated in the style at the turn of the century.


I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves. The organ, I understand, still works. The study has a library of books and personal diaries dating to 1700’s. Of course, there was a gift shop and I splurged on a book.

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Twillingate Facts:

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Next on May 27th – Gander

© 2015 Tess @ How the Cookie Crumbles. All Rights Reserved.

For more related posts, click on Newfoundland / Labrador tab at the top of the page


Beothuks and more

Today I have a mishmash of tidbits. This hadn’t been an exciting day but one filled with lots of interesting information.

On the move again. Luggage out by 6:30 a.m. Buffet breakfast at 7:00 and on the bus by 8:00 a.m. Another wet day pressing the windshield wipers into service. Swish-swish.

Francis, our guide, read a poem: Check it out. Maybe you’ll enjoy it, too.

A couple from our group shared a strange incident from the night before. One of them had flipped through the TV channels for something entertaining. A particular station clicked, the air conditioner snapped on. Clicked again, and it turned off. They wondered what else might be off.

A moose will challenge anything in its way. We passed a moose killed on the road the previous night, but I didn’t see it, and we couldn’t slow down even though others asked.

Because we weren’t going to see icebergs today, Francis popped in a DVD about them. Did you know icebergs are about 10 stories high? Pieces break off, the berg rolls over and continues breaking off until it melts in summer. Check this out: (Something has changed in WordPress, I can’t seem to insert videos here lately.)

First stop, the Beothuk Interpretation Centre

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Beothuk Facts:

A short stop at Little Harbour, which has one street. In June and July, there are icebergs here, but not during out visit. The weather windy, nippy and overcast, we strolled down the one short street and took pictures of root cellars, the rocky shore and the few houses.

Houses along the one road. Not a car passed us.

Old root cellar. Painted door in good repair, it must still be in use..


More Quick Facts about Newfoundland:

  • The twin towers in New York were built by Newfoundlanders
  • Newfoundland only place you’ll find Pineapple Crush. Everyone else knows Orange Crush.
  • Doctors Banting and Best co-discovered insulin
  • Experimented on dogs
  • A boy at death’s door was first human to be injected with insulin (miraculous recovery)
  • Planting starts in early June: carrots and potatoes
  • Tomatoes need a greenhouse
  • Farmers use Biodegradable_plastic over plants to keep in heat and protect from early spring frost

Capelin Facts:

  • Capelin – member of the smelt family
  • Harvested for Japanese market
  • Russians also came to do the same
  • Especially for female roe /males discarded
  • 30 – 40% are male (a market must be found for them)
  • Occasionally an overloaded boat swamped
  • Fishermen made the best of their catch
  • A lucky fisherman took all he wanted from his nets
  • Some fishermen buddied up to make the most of a day’s catch
  • Are food for cod and puffins (we didn’t see these either as we were too late in the season)

Old Irish Tradition: Mummery (check link for Mummers’ costumes and song)

During the 12 days of Christmas, 25 to 30 people could knock on someone’s door. They’d be invited inside, given a piece of chocolate cake, and a drink for adults. Everyone tried to identify each other. The visitors performed plays, sang, played instruments, danced, and had a good time. This old tradition is now enjoyed only at Hallowe’en.

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Next on May 20th – Twillington

© 2015 Tess @ How the Cookie Crumbles. All Rights Reserved.

For more related posts, click on Newfoundland / Labrador tab at the top of the page

Thank you for reading and commenting. I appreciate your kind support.


Do Salmon Need Help?

Three of our group left us yesterday. After breakfast, we bused to Deer Lake to drop three more couples at the airport. They hadn’t known about the 12-day package and would have liked to stay on. We are down to 22, which gives us lots of choices where to sit on the huge bus.

Another overcast day, but the sun was stubborn and peeked out sporadically around stubborn, sullen clouds. By 8:38 a.m., Francis had popped in a DVD about the last of the Red Indians— the Beothuk —who painted their skin with ochre (their spiritual connection).  (The Last of the Red Indians and Stealing Mary)

After the movie, I dozed as did the rest of my fellow travelers. Though it was early morning, I decided on an early night, maybe straight after supper.

The luncheon offer consisted of cod stuffed with crab. Though not bad, I couldn’t find the crab. Two scoops of mashed potatoes and lots of kernel corn decorated the plate. The coffee was bitter. We did not stay for dessert as we were to enjoy a planned mug up later.

Next stop: the logging town, Grand Falls-Windsor and the Exploits River, the longest river in Newfoundland. We learned how salmon make their way up on the fish ways and how their stocks have increased due to the diligent work done there. Can you believe it takes three years for a salmon to grow to adulthood?


Lookout to to Salmon Interpretation Center:


Examples of salmon ladders to the river:

  • The project started three years ago with only 1,000 fish
  • Up to 30,000 now
  • The fish go back to the river and the first year out to Greenland and the sea
  • They then swim upstream once every two years as it is ideal for them and saps their energy
  • Fishing is allowed June, July, and August
  • Restriction of two fish per person each month and less than 63 cm (two feet) in length
  • On bright days, flies need lots of silver
  • Dark color on a dark day
  • The longer the fly, the more chance you catch attention of a salmon
  • They are not hungry, merely attracted to shiny things floating by

We visited a local craft shop in Lewisporte where we were treated to a mug up. A fellow had come in to entertain us on his electric piano. The music was so good, Francis asked Mary for a waltz and made her day.

We had leftover pizza for supper and didn’t bother leaving the room. Television didn’t hold my interest, and my eyes were too heavy to read.

Quick Facts:

  • Current population in Newfoundland approximately 500,000
  • No snakes, deer or chipmunks
  • No ragweed
  • 44 species of orchids
  • 16th largest island in the world
  • Squirrels introduced to Newfoundland in 1963
  • 3 large oil fields on the grand banks
  • Hibernia Oil Field most profitable in Canada

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Next on May 13th – Beothuks

© 2015 Tess @ How the Cookie Crumbles. All Rights Reserved.

For more related posts, click on Newfoundland / Labrador tab at the top of the page

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

If you are reading this, thank you for coming back after my sudden disappearance. Without you, I wouldn’t have this blog nor enjoy our pleasant exchanges. A special thanks to those who ‘checked’ up on me. You have been my strength during a difficult time. Bless you all.


Jiggs Dinner and Anchors Aweigh

A long afternoon of driving after lunch. We visited Lomond (in Gros Morne National Park) known for its camping, boating, and picnic area.

We traipsed from the upper road down, down, down, down to the water. over a path and then a gravel road (for boats?). Someone had setup camp in what appeared a field away from the water. We made an effort not to disturb whomever might be sleeping although it was mid-afternoon. We came across lady’s slippers, usually found in July not this time of year (mid-September).

In the evening, the trio from the Bon Boat Tour, who were part of the Anchors Aweigh band, were performing in the evening. We picked up tickets at Oceanview Hotel while in Rocky Harbour.

IMG Anchors Aweigh Ticket_NEW

The tickets were $30 each, more than double a previous entertainment offering we’d passed up. After enjoying the trio on the Bonne Tours boat, and after a video of the five-member group’s performance concert on the bus, Mary and I decided why not. Of course, any drinks we wanted would be over and above the entrance price.

Special Treat Supper: Jiggs Dinner

Boiled salt beef, yellow pea pudding, gravy, a whole potato and carrot, and green peas. I have a story about this farther down. I found my yellow pea pudding dry and overall could not finish the platter. What a huge meal.


The hotel jammed with tourists when we arrived for the 8:00 p.m. show, favored us with a tall table and four chairs in the back of the room. New Patrons from another group soon joined Mary and me. They’d also been treated to the Jiggs dinner earlier—the original with cabbage. Francis told us our menu had been changed from cabbage to green peas for a reason. The tour company wanted to ensure the passengers on the bus were without growling tummies or upsets, and happy the next day

The three-hour show was worth every penny. The band took only one break for less than twenty minutes. I’m tempted to say it was closer to ten. The music continued fast and lively; the jokes and laughs endless. This is not my go-to music but I enjoyed every minute of it.

Credit: Shotgun Jilly  (band bio)

Credit: OnTheBeatAndPath

Giggle for today:

This kind of day is nicer looking down on the grass than looking up.

Next on April 1st –  Do Salmon Need Help?

© 2015 Tess @ How the Cookie Crumbles. All Rights Reserved.

For more related posts, click on Newfoundland / Labrador tab at the top of the page  


Discovery Center and Lunch

The boat adventure across Bonne Bay to Woody Point over, Shaun drove us to the restaurant for lunch.

As close to the internet as you’re going to get (Note #2)


Because of the dampness outside, I’d hoped for a hot coffee upon entering the restaurant. No luck. A full water jug center-pieced each table. The meal arrived almost immediately.

Three kinds of fish: Capelin, Turbot and Cod. Two scoops mashed potatoes dusted with fresh parsley, carrot knuckles, and a branch of broccoli. The carrots were perfect, just soft enough, and the broccoli crisp and bright green.


The Capelin was tricky. It’s a small fish about six inches long and deep-fried. The bones, tail, and side fin were edible as was the backbone inside. The chef split the fish in half for a nice presentation, but I didn’t enjoy the (too hard- over-fried?) texture though the taste was fine.

Dessert: Nanaimo bars (one for everyone as well as cloudberry tarts (yellow berries). Shortly after, cream cheese pie with partridge berry sauce (red) arrived. Only two tarts and one bar remained at our table for four. I didn’t partake. Coffee and tea were served in lovely china teacups and saucers. Only one cup of either per customer. Oh.

Our tour group filled the small restaurant. One server delivered and picked up after all 34 meals. Afterwards she had to rush off to another job.

This is some of the art on the walls inside the restaurant:

After lunch, we walked—more like struggled—on the boardwalk along the water. The wind blew strong and fierce, too wicked for picture taking.

I was relieved to get on the bus after the wind’s blowing us about. Off to see the World Heritage Site, Gros Morne Park and tablelands.

No wind here. I managed to stash three small rocks into my pocket for souvenirs. We were told not to take any, but I’m not sure if that was a joke. Why not? Was there worry they’d run out?

The drizzle continued, though the sun made attempts to nip in and out of the clouds. Next on our agenda was the new Discovery Centre where we finally saw replicas of a moose and caribou. This was a gorgeous building but a sign next to the bathroom door warned the water wasn’t safe for drinking until it was boiled for a full two minutes. Shoot. I hadn’t thought to bring a kettle.

  • The moose is large like a horse
  • Is part of the deer family
  • Has paddle-shaped antlers
  • Females don’t grow antlers
  • Has long legs


  • Caribou are much smaller than moose
  • Part of the deer family
  • Antlers grow tall with many branches
  • Female grows and sheds antlers
  • Also called reindeer
  • Have wide hooves
  • Like the cold and high altitudes


We watched a film on climate change, took pictures of models, and lost Francis. We wandered about killing time until he showed up. A panicked woman from our group approached Mary and me. Her iPad said it was out of storage space and she couldn’t get in. Mary happened to know what to do because she’d the same problem the day before. She managed to get into the video files for the woman to delete some of them to free up space. The look of wonder she gave Mary was priceless.


Jake Crocker Heritage House

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Next on March 25th – Jiggs Dinner and Anchors Aweigh

© 2015 Tess @ How the Cookie Crumbles. All Rights Reserved.

For more related posts, click on Newfoundland / Labrador tab at the top of the page


Rosehips and the Good Ship

Forecast: 12°  Celsius and more rain. Actual: brief drizzle, mean, rough winds.

First stop: Photographer’s Lookout at Norris Point for a fifteen-minute photo opportunity. Across the water, we had a view of the World Heritage Site, Gros Morne Park and tablelands.

Devil’s roses or rosehips brought over from Devon by English fishermen. They grow everywhere and in abundance. In full bloom, their aroma is amazing. I first learned of ‘hips and haws’ at blogger, Julias Place.

From Bonne Bay, we took a two-hour boat ride. A crew member helped us on board. When my turn came, the sailor said, “We’ll need to confiscate your bag, ma’am.”


I almost choked. My knees folded. Wasn’t I an innocent tourist in parts far from home? Darn if he wasn’t pulling my leg. He laughed and laughed even as he helped the person on after me. Humor in Newfoundland is visual. That’s their philosophy of life. They like to have fun or they’ll go nuts.

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With the aid of a bullhorn, another crew member explained about the rock formations we passed (the photos above). The angry wind thrashed and ate his words. Soon we put up our hoods and abandoned the supplied binoculars we used to better view the striations in the rock. One by one, we weather-beaten tourists disappeared into the bowels of the boat.

Inside, it was one basic room with rows of folding chairs surrounded by windows to watch the shoreline. A while after we were inside, rain trickled down the windows off and on. At the bar, hot chocolate and rum were on offer for $7.00 CAD. Cost be darned. I bet every person lined up. Some even a second time. They should have called that hot drink ‘heaven’ or ‘divine.’ I’ve forgotten the real name.


While we warmed up, information about the surrounding water and tiny village continued. The captain came down to perform the Screeching in Ceremony. We swore allegiance to Newfoundland and acquired an Order of Screechers certificate. Only one person was required to kiss the cod for all of us.

“Good. Now that you are citizens, you have to pay taxes to Newfoundland.”

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Wait a minute. The guy playing the squeeze box was the captain. There were only three crew members. Who’s driving the boat?

Getting Screeched.  Credit GypsyNester

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Next on March 18th – Discovery Center and Lunch

© 2015 Tess @ How the Cookie Crumbles. All Rights Reserved.

For more related posts, click on Newfoundland / Labrador tab at the top of the page


Back to Newfoundland

The water on our return, wasn’t as glass smooth as the day before. It simmered and bubbled like a pot of soup left on the stove on medium instead of low. Progress wasn’t as choppy as I expected though. We chose a central location on the ferry, but the engine vibration penetrated through the floor, into my feet and to the top of my head. Not an experience I wanted to endure, we moved to the same area as the previous day and sat at the same streaked windows. The rounded metal frames and nails  / screws fastening it in place were corroded and unappealing, but efficient. The St. Lawrence Seaway, as all bodies of water, is not kind to boats on the water nor houses within spitting distance. Wood doesn’t have the strength or guts to stand up to the water’s abuse, which creeps into metal and stone as well as skin and bones like a live thing reminding you it has been here since the beginning of time and will continue after you are gone.

Back in Newfoundland again, our next stop: Broom Point where three Mudge brothers, their wives, and children fished from 1941 to 1975.


Shaun, our driver, backed and backed into the Point forever. He had no alternative as there was no place to turn that huge bus around for our return. The road narrowed. As I watched, a deep drop over the edge drifted into view. I grabbed Mary and yanked her over to the window. Shaun made a correction. Gears grated. I held my breath. Mary and I stared at each other our last prayer on our lips. What a way to find out we had an excellent driver!

Barricades blocked vehicular travel from proceeding further. We walked a long way to the Point around puddles and wet gravel road. An ancient outhouse grinned as we passed. The wicked wind off the water, should have toppled it, if not this day, then long ago. I wish I’d taken a picture. I imagined bugs, spiders, and webs. Mary and another woman decided they couldn’t wait. No, I didn’t ask my sister how it was inside.

Seagulls screamed and the wind blew tantrums. Francis raised his voice and described how these traps work. Lobsters get in fine. Once inside, they end up in one of several narrow compartments and can’t figure out how to get out.

He had brought his iPad (the big one) and offered to take a group picture. Not satisfied with one, he took several and offered to email the best one to each of us, no charge.


All pictured out and tired of the punishing wind, we were again on our way. An Irving gas station stop offered snacks and use of the facilities. Everything from hot pizza, blocks of cheese, candy, knives, tools, hammers, a multitude of snacks, and a cooler full of beer were available among too many products to mention.


For a fee, we could have purchased tickets for an evening’s entertainment at the hotel bar, but we opted not to go. We decided on a movie and cracked open a bottle of wine. Mary ordered a pizza and salad at the front desk. The taste was a little different from the kind in Ontario but it did the job. We polished off the bottle, I crawled into bed, but Mary continued reading.

Three things I might mention about the room. The beds were lovely. There was no chain on the door, though it had a deadlock. The bathroom sported a tiny facet on a standard sink, the spout almost too short to be useful.

Giggle for today

My wife is such a grand cook. I bet she could fry a fart and make gravy.

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© 2015 Tess @ How the Cookie Crumbles. All Rights Reserved.

For more related posts, click on Newfoundland / Labrador tab at the top of the page

Next on March 11th – Rosehips and the Good Ship


Good-bye Labrador

Few photo opportunities for this post. More next time.

Wake-up call had been arranged for 7:30 a.m. We woke fifteen minutes before the phone rang, but it was still a scramble. Our luggage  was outside our door as we made our way foir breakfast by 8:00 a.m.

One of the overstuffed pillows on the beds would have still fit in my suitcase. Mary must have packed her entire closet ‘just in case.’ She had made use of the expansion zipper and with so much jampacked into her luggage, couldn’t find anything whenever she changed her mind and dug for something else.

Our tour group had the small restaurant to ourselves. The buffet breakfast offered regular porridge, numerous types of dry cereal, orange juice, and milk. The usual hot pans awaited: pancakes, scrambled eggs, bacon, and sausages, lots of toasted whole wheat bread. Orange slices and a discreet bowl of prunes completed the ensemble. Assorted packets of jam were at each table.

Francis reminded us to pickup the boxed lunches on the way out to the bus. It was impossible to miss them as they covered the whole reception desk where everyone had to drop off their room keys. Our lunches tucked into the overheads, we started out again in the grey drizzle and fog. I had forgotten we were in Labrador.   (WP says this is invalid address)

Credit  oldirishladdie

Francis read a letter he’d found on the internet by a guy wanting to renew his passport.

The Newfoundlander, who had been a Canadian since 1949 had done so successfully several times before. He had served 30 years in the army, received Canadian pension etc. This, of course, entailed all the beauracracy anyone has ever experienced in a lifetime.

One of the questions asked his address. He wondered why, in his letter, he had to supply it since the forms had been addressed to his correct address. See where this is going? On and on the silly questions continued.

We laughed so hard, Francis and the driver included, we ended up in Quebec because we’d missed the correct exit to the ferry. Easy to do, you see, since our hotel wasn’t that deep into Labrador and the small strip which was Quebec could not be avoided between Newfoundland and Labrador. Though we had to use a few minutes to find a suitable area to reverse direction, we still had plenty of time before boarding.


Shaun parked, shut off the engine. We had time to wait. Novels, iPods, iPods and cells were pulled out. Although the bus has WiFi, no one had been able to access it. Internet at last night’s hotel has been the easiest and most user-friendly so far.

Power to Labrador:

  • Labrador Island Link
  • Cable laid 35 km long: 2 for power, 1 for backup
  • Drilled off 350 meters.
  • 20 meters down to ocean floor
  • 600,000 tons of gravel to protect the wire from passing ships etc. to a depth of a meter and a half.

Giggle for a Friday

Two guys go into a new bar with lots of mirrors looked around for service.

“Sit down, Paddy. They’re coming over here.”

Next on March 4th – Back to NewFoundland

© 2015 Tess @ How the Cookie Crumbles. All Rights Reserved.

For more related posts, click on Newfoundland / Labrador tab at the top of the page


Whales, Fishing and Fish Oil, Oh My


We enjoyed a mug up, or tea break along the way (See Newlandland sayings). There were choices of muffins, tea, or coffee. This is snack time after all. It took a while for service. About half-way through our drinks, it was already time to leave. Mary asked if we might switch to a Styrofoam cup to go. “Of course,” the waitress said.

“I don’t suppose I can get a warm up?” Doesn’t hurt to ask.

“Help yourself when you pick up your cup.” She pointed to the coffee service beside the cash register. The mug up had been free as was the warm up and cup.

Next stop, we visited the Red Bay National Historic Site Visitor Centre and the Interpretation Center to view the collection of artifacts.

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I cannot get my head around it. how had whalers managed to chase, catch, and harpoon a 60,000 whale and not drown in a boat the size of the chalupa (also see below).


  • Red Basque Bay Whaling Station (Bay named because of red soil)
  • 2 types of whale: bowhead and bull
  • 2,000 French sailors came here for whaling
  • 30,000 tons of whale oil back to their homes
  • 1 barrel of oil = $6,000 – $8,000 each
  • Several whaling stations
  • First will was written in Basque Country by a sailor
  • Selma_Barkham five years in the Basque Country (historian / researcher)


The real deal a-basque-galleon

Later, the bus stopped for a facilities break at an Express Liquor, which carried everything you might ever need: from skidoos, motor oil, fishing equipment, tourist T-shirts, snacks, and wine. Wow. Francis told us not to be shy. The 7-ll we have in Ontario are nothing like this and don’t even carry spirits.

“If you want to pick up some wine or spirits, here’s your chance.” What a salesman!

Mary and I followed the rest of the passengers like sheep. An opportunity not to pass to loosen the bus-sitting bodies. When we asked Francis the chances of finding another Express the following night around the hotel, he said, “No chance.”

“Guess we’ll plan ahead then.” I felt heat rise in my face. He smiled and I scooted away.

Isn’t this a straight highway?

The restaurant where we stopped for dinner was a disappointment. The crab cakes I ordered were a good size, nicely browned, but mashed potatoes over-powered the taste. I couldn’t taste the cod. Had they run out of fish? A salad lay limp and suffering next to them, joined in the deception with a thimbleful of homemade pickle relish and half a slice of white bread. What? Thank goodness I decided to splurge on a glass of beer before I saw my order. I thought my tummy would scream for more food, but it didn’t—not immediately. Mary and I considered ordering a pizza later.

Around 8:20 pm, the bus finally arrived at Northern Light Inn for a one-night stay. A huge bowl of non-alcoholic punch with floating inch-long slices of orange peel awaited us in the lobby. Francis handed out room keys and menu choices for boxed lunches. We had to fill out and drop them off at Reception before going to our rooms. Someone was coming in for overtime to make up the lunches, ready for pick up in the morning on our way to the bus.

The room offered a different experience again. This time the water pressure surprised us. It was exceptional compared to our previous hotel where the toilet couldn’t gather enough pressure to flush without some cajoling.

The sink / powder area were across the hall from the bathroom. Something we haven’t seen on this tour, although, I have in the past. A note on the bathroom mirror requested unused towels not be dropped in the tub signifying laundry. MADE perfect sense. Why not save towel life, excess soap, bleach, water, and electricity? I like and appreciate conservation. Why not in a hotel / motel environment?


A man bought a sheer nightie for his 80-year-old wife. “Oh my gawd. All that money and they didn’t even iron it.”

© 2015 Tess @ How the Cookie Crumbles.

For more related posts, click on Newfoundland / Labrador tab at the top of the page.

Next on February 26th –  Around and out of Labrador


L’Anse Amour, NFL.

L’Anse Amour  (near the Quebec border) is the smallest, most northerly community, and the National Historic Site of Canada.

The HMS_Raleigh ran aground here in 1922, a huge embarrassment to the British. The Davis family (a community of seven) took in the 700 men who survived (11 died) though they had no means of housing and feeding such a large number. The sailors salvaged all they could from the ship even the piano. Men slept on the shore (anywhere and everywhere) and some later stayed for a couple months after the British rescue ship arrived. The British Admiralty granted land to the Davis Family, in perpetuity as well as the cove itself, for their selfless deed.

Flash forward to 2012 and the 90-year-old-wreckage.

Only ten Davises live in L’anse Amour now. This is the Davis Family Graveyard.


Built in 1858, the Point Amour lighthouse is the tallest lighthouse in Atlantic Canada and the second highest in the country. If you’re interested in others or their histories, click here.


The lighthouse has a gift shop on the first floor (of course). The furniture on this floor had been removed to make room for the displays / models  and to accommodate busloads of tourists passing through.

The furnishings of the day as well as sample clothing were displayed on the second floor. This main building had no bathroom facilities though the demand was high. Anyone wanting to use them had to walk a good distance in a blustery wind to another building away from the main attraction.

Below, a model of the lighthouse:


The stairway to the top  wasn’t what I’d expected. A guide led small groups at a time, but how had they fit? Mary and I were last—just us three. The stairs weren’t what I had expected either. They were steep, did not snake, but were vertical and had six landings. The last two levels were ladders, not stairs as the space had gradually became smaller and narrower as we worked our way to the top. Why? I had not thought to ask, but I wonder if it had to do with the lighthouse platform (with the saving light) and the space for it. Cannot find the answer.

Shedding light on a landing in this dark tower along the way up.


The last couple sets of ladder rungs were so tight (and vertical), no way could I turn around if I had to. Legs quaking, we huffed and puffed our way to the top: 132 steps and 109 feet up. What a view! (I had to scrap a number of pictures, which reflected the photographer in the glass).

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More images of L’Anse Amour

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Next on February 19th: About Whales and Fishing and Fish Oil, Oh My! (day 4 continued)

© 2015 Tess @ How the Cookie Crumbles.

For more related posts, click on Newfoundland / Labrador tab at the top of the page.