After the tea ceremony, the (rich) foreigners were whisked into a sales room. Inside, various teas were for sale, as were copious types of teapots and tea sets. Some cost almost as much as my all-inclusive holiday in Canadian dollars. I stepped back, my hands tucked in close to my sides for fear of an accident and breaking up a set. Had I noticed how many pieces made up a set? No, I’d been too petrified.
Before continuing on to Yangshuo by bus, the ladies inquired about the facilities. We traipsed down a long corridor to a small clean washroom. Inside were two stalls with pedestal toilets (wow) inside cubicles with (approximately) three-foot wide shutters for privacy installed in about the middle of the door frame. Anyone might look over the top as she walked past. The one I used didn’t have a proper latch to secure them shut. I hadn’t been this good at gymnastics ever before.
Have you ever seen such a small truck with this impossible load of wood on it’s roof?
The highways were unbelievably neat and clean. No garbage, paper or plastic were in evidence anywhere the same as all the highways we’d been on so far.
Pretty countryside surrounded us along the way to Yangshuo
Quick Facts:
- Famous for the limestone mountains
- Grow lots of strawberries
- Foot massage is only $20.00 USD
- Zhuang is China’s largest ethnic minority (about 16 million) who like singing
- Zhuang choose lovers while singing folk songs (a means of courting)
- They hold an annual Folk Song Festival
- National Flower: Bauhinia
- Li River is smaller than Yangtze and shallow
- Also home to Dragon River and four lakes
- Lots of nurseries: grow trees for planning
- Land is government owned (as in all of China). Must renew lease every 70 years.
The countryside viewed from the bus: newly planted fields, farm houses and water
At last we arrived at the hotel. Time to freshen up and have dinner. The hotel appeared empty and too quiet. We were settled at a table in an empty dining room. All throughout dinner we saw only the waitress.
Dinner Menu:
- Tomato soup
- Rice
- Egg pancake
- French Fries
- Sweet and sour pork with pineapple
- Thin noodles with shredded carrots
- Sliced cucumbers and sliced cooked chicken
- Cooked sliced celery and water chestnuts
- Cauliflower, broccoli and carrots, mixed
- Fermented tofu
- Chili sauce
- Soy cakes and sweet dip + soy sauce
- Battered banana, deep-fried, with caramel
The smell from the bathroom invaded the dining-room. I couldn’t understand such a thing in a hotel of this significance. Phew. I hadn’t been aware of anything like this elsewhere. I asked Sue about it, but she hadn’t been conscious of anything unpleasant.
After dinner, we rushed to attend an open air performance. By the time we arrived in the main park dusk had fallen. At first small clusters of people walked around us with lots of breathing space between us all. By dusk the crowd swarmed like a maelstrom with a mind of its own. I hugged my bag against my chest, arms tucked in as close I could manage. Our English Group Eight clung together with Lily, our guide, ahead of us and tried desperately to keep her in sight. She stopped a couple of times and waited. What made the situation worse was the dark. There were no park lights out in the open. I felt blindfolded. Never have I experienced this tight a convergence of bodies around me. I confess terror struck me for the first time since we’d arrived in China; terror the crowd might rip me from my fellow travelers; terror of being lost and disoriented in a foreign country and in the dark.
Lily left us to buy entrance tickets and suggested we wait while the crowd thinned out before taking us to our seats. She wasn’t allowed to sit with us. We took our seats after she explained where we’d find her when the performance ended.
Our seats were good in about the third tier up. The show was like nothing I had ever seen. This video doesn’t do it enough justice. You had to be there. The Chinese sure know how to put on stunning presentations! Enjoy.
Excellent show “Impression Liu San Jie” (in Yangshuo)
Credit: Uwe Völker
~ * ~
Next on February 20th, Yangshuo: Day 18, Part 1 – Li River
For more related posts, click on China tab at the top of the page
© 2015 All Rights Reserved Tess @ How the Cookie Crumbles
February 13, 2015 at 7:29 pm
Remarkable!
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February 13, 2015 at 7:31 pm
Glad you enjoyed this. 🙂
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February 13, 2015 at 7:44 pm
I’d hate to be driving behind that overloaded truck. Or worse, biking behind it. Yikes.
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February 13, 2015 at 7:47 pm
I agree with both previous comments, still enjoying my virtual trip via Tess China tours
🙂 xxx
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February 14, 2015 at 12:29 pm
Thanks so much, Willow. 🙂 ❤
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February 13, 2015 at 8:08 pm
You’ve really had some hair raising moments with this tour, Tess. Overwhelming crowd… in utter darkness. Good grief… Terror is right. I’m not sure any performance would have been worth it. But it does sound beautiful. Thanks for including the video.
Happy Valentine’s Day to you. Hugs! ❤
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February 14, 2015 at 12:32 pm
Happy Valentines, Teagan.
There were lights in the seating area and one dull one outside the entrance to it. I was transfixed. Everything was performed on the water and so many performers were involved. Stunning is what I call it all. ❤
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February 13, 2015 at 8:14 pm
That show is stunning Tess. I know what you mean about the video not doing it justice so I’m trying to imagine it in it’s live form. I know I can’t, not really. I can also imagine the fear of being torn from your traveling partners. It’s amazing and says a lot about your traveling that this is the first time that your actually felt that kind of fear, you’ve been to so many places already. So I’m pretty impressed with the group and the traveling arrangements for this to be the first time.
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February 14, 2015 at 12:37 pm
I’ve never been in a crowd where I couldn’t move, it was so tight. I can’t get my head around how Tiananmen Square, though huge can hold 1Million people. I’d be terrified of being crushed. We’re not used to that kind of ‘closeness’.
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February 14, 2015 at 8:08 pm
1 Million People. My mind can’t comprehend that.
You really are doing this trip great honors Tess. Someone should pay you to travel a great trip every year, and write about it like this. You really do a great job with it. I look forward to it every week.
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February 14, 2015 at 10:01 pm
Than YOU, Colleen. I’m honored to have you say this. This is lovely to hear. Another blogging friend said the same thing. It’s just my way of looking at things and would I LOVE to do this a couple times a year? You bet! I’m reliving this trip and can better process the things we did, but at my own pace this time. This has been a super lucky experience for me. ❤ ❤ ❤
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February 15, 2015 at 5:05 pm
And me!!!! ❤
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February 16, 2015 at 7:29 am
*{~_~}*
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February 13, 2015 at 9:35 pm
That open air “mountain-water” theater is spectacular! The moments of being terrified in the crowd though, sound awful. I can imagine how scary that was.
(And the bathroom odor in the dining room-ewwwww!)
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February 14, 2015 at 12:40 pm
We’re not used to that sort of crush. Now I understand how someone can be trampled in a crowd or carried in a different direction.
*shiver*
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February 14, 2015 at 1:50 pm
Scary!
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February 13, 2015 at 10:26 pm
Fabulous, the theater. I can’t do crowds though so I felt you in there. I just love your travels Tess, I do think you need to do more of these.
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February 14, 2015 at 12:44 pm
Thank YOU, Val. We’re not used to zero personal space. I know understand how someone can be crushed in a crowd (trampled).
We were told, never to take our feet off the ground because a crowd could carry you off, that’s how crowded some places could get. This is the first time. The next was in Macau.
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February 14, 2015 at 12:38 am
As for the truck with impossible loads, come to Africa, they do that here too. 😊 The video brings the atmosphere over well. It looks quite magnificent 🌻
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February 14, 2015 at 12:49 pm
I was t.h.e.r.e. and I kept forgetting the stage was the water. Aren’t these people so clever? I felt like a kid.
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February 14, 2015 at 12:46 am
I echo willowdot21’s comment—am enjoying this arm-chair tour of China seen through your eyes. It’s been filled with exciting, fabulous, exotic experiences including those occasional quiet moments– only you can tell so well.. Thanks Tess–are you almost home?
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February 14, 2015 at 12:52 pm
Thank YOU! Thank you. I marvel more now then when we were there because everything kept happening so fast. Now I’m enjoying it at my own pace.glad you’ve enjoyed the trip so far.
We have seven more days to go.
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February 14, 2015 at 12:53 pm
Happy Valentines Day. Can’t remember if I mentioned this in my last comment.
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February 14, 2015 at 3:14 am
It looks both truly impressive and terrifying at the same time. I agree that we’re all enjoying the tour with you. Have a great Valentine’s Tess!
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February 14, 2015 at 12:55 pm
Thank you. Only one more week and then it will all be over. Thanks for coming along, Olga.
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February 14, 2015 at 3:28 am
OMG, that truck just did it for me I can’ stop laughing about it.
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February 14, 2015 at 12:56 pm
I was wowed by the truck as well. In Beijing, you wouldn’t believe the stuff you’d find people transported on a bicycle. Truly ingenious.
Happy Valentines. ❤ ❤
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February 14, 2015 at 3:32 am
That is a serious case of overloading!
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February 14, 2015 at 12:57 pm
I can’t imagine how they get the load up there let alone not crush the truck or fall off. Genius.
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February 14, 2015 at 3:49 am
Reblogged this on Smorgasbord – Variety is the spice of life and commented:
I enjoy my weekly armchair trip through China in the company of writer Tess Karlinski – this week mixed reviews on bathrooms and a stunning outdoor performance….photos and video too.
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February 14, 2015 at 3:51 am
always incredible and creative!
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February 14, 2015 at 12:58 pm
Thanks so much. 🙂
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February 14, 2015 at 4:37 am
The food sounds good this time Tess and the countryside is stunning. You must have wondered what you ‘d let yourself in for on the way to the performance 🙂 but how amazing, I can’t imagine how they ever conceive of their ideas! Fabulous to experience it through you 🙂
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February 14, 2015 at 1:01 pm
Thank you, Gilly. I kept forgetting the performance as on the water. It was mind-blowing. Of course, I felt like a kid.
Happy Valentines. ❤
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February 14, 2015 at 6:07 am
Apart from the handicaps you had, I hope you enjoyed the play. I didn’t see it, but I had lovely 5 hours in a boat where we had a tasty lunch. The voyage along the river was so nice I’ll never forget it, the mountains along the river are incredible and imposing. Well I’m waiting for more of yout trip and experiences.
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February 14, 2015 at 1:03 pm
I don’t like crowds, especially so tight and at night. *shivers*
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February 14, 2015 at 8:43 am
I love the overloaded truck photo Tess. Just as amazing are some of the loads that I saw on small motorbikes. These folks know how to use their transport. I’ve never been to this part of China, so I enjoyed your post. ~James
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February 14, 2015 at 1:15 pm
Glad I have offered something new to you. Yes, the bicycles and motorbikes were stacked well also with many products, but the weight seems reasonable. This truck…my brain cannot compute. 😀 😀
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February 14, 2015 at 9:04 am
Loved the picture of the truck. Thought it was a hand cart at first!
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February 14, 2015 at 1:22 pm
My mouth dropped when I saw it pass on the road. Glad my brain worked well enough to grab a photo.
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February 14, 2015 at 10:19 am
The music on the video is so peaceful. My body calmed down listening to it and watching it. Wonderful. And, the lush countryside photos are so nice. Thank you for taking the time to share all this with us. Doubtful I’ll do much traveling from here on out and it’s so nice to see this and live vicariously with others experiences. Happy Valentine’s Day, Tess. ❤
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February 14, 2015 at 1:28 pm
I had to keep reminding myself the performance was on the bay. I kept forgetting. Yes, I liked the music as well. This kind was pleasing. I’ve heard others I did not enjoy earlier in the trip.
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February 14, 2015 at 1:28 pm
Happy, happy Valentines Day to YOU, as well, Paulette. ❤
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February 14, 2015 at 10:53 am
Can I assume that most toilets over there are ‘bomb shoots’? The first time I had to use one, I finally realized, some of extent, how spoiled I am on this side of the world.
Happy Valentine’s Day, my friend. ❤
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February 14, 2015 at 1:31 pm
Happy Valentines to you as well, my friend, Glynis. ❤
What is a 'bomb shoot'? You mean a squat toilet, I suppose. Staying in 5-star hotels we had luxurious bathrooms. In the beginning in a 'few' restaurants and parts, we weren't always lucky. We were taken to special washrooms suitable for tourists most of the time.
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February 14, 2015 at 11:34 am
What an incredible place and backdrop for a show but yes, it must have been very scary getting to your seats in such a crowd and in the dark 😮
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February 14, 2015 at 1:33 pm
The tight, tight crowd was scary because it could have taken me away. The seating area was lit so we found our seats okay. It was in the main park area where there was one kiosk with a light inside outside the main entrance to the bay area.
Happy Valentines, Cathy. ❤
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February 14, 2015 at 1:36 pm
Thank you 😀 Same to you ❤
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February 14, 2015 at 3:43 pm
Man I can’t imagine getting squeezed in the dark. It made me sweat just reading it.
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February 14, 2015 at 9:23 pm
I believe you’re thinking the wrong kind of squeezed. 😀 😀 😀
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February 14, 2015 at 5:28 pm
I love the truck photo and I do agree that we can become very gymnastic in the right circumstances. Your trip is wonderful and I love reading about it, but every installment makes me wonder if you aren’t getting tired with the pace you are keeping so well. I would fall asleep at the performance you went to.
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February 14, 2015 at 9:33 pm
I loved the performance once the terror subsided and we came around a corner to lit seats. I marveled at magic created on the water and had to remind myself it wasn’t a stage; it was w.a.t.e.r.
The pace is slowing down now. I was more tired in the beginning because we hit the ground running–no time for jet lag–from the get-go. The cruise fixed that.
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February 14, 2015 at 9:34 pm
That truck is my ‘trophy’ from the trip. I was there. My brain told me to take the darn picture and now I’m proud of my self because I have proof of what I thought impossible. 😀 😀
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February 14, 2015 at 6:15 pm
I think the truck would be illegal here in America. Considered too dangerous. The bathroom smell–yuck! Are we too pampered? Or did they do it on purpose?
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February 14, 2015 at 9:41 pm
This was the weirdest hotel. We saw no-one till breakfast and they had the least interesting buffet of all the hotels.
I agree about the illegal. That’s a no brainer even without laws. I can’t believe the truck and driver weren’t crushed. A great picture though and I’m glad I was swift enough to get it as it drove by. 🙂
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February 15, 2015 at 5:18 am
HI Tess,
I am not comfortable in a large crowd either, but the performance was stunning! Thank you for taking us along for the ride!
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February 15, 2015 at 10:48 am
Wow, that video was really something! Thanks for sharing it, Tess.
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February 15, 2015 at 10:59 am
You are welcome, Kate. The performance blew me away. I kept forgetting it took place on water. How did they do all that? Amazing.
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February 15, 2015 at 6:01 pm
The performance looks amazing! Glad you enjoyed it in spite of the panicky feeling on the way.
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February 16, 2015 at 7:33 am
Being crushed in a crowd doesn’t feel like peace and love or even ‘love the one you’re with’. 😀 😀
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February 15, 2015 at 8:57 pm
Wow! What an amazing experience!
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February 16, 2015 at 7:39 am
The whole trp was an amazing experience. Days packed full and always go-go-go. Thank you for reading and commenting. Glad to have you along for the tour.
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February 16, 2015 at 10:00 am
I said it before and I’ll say it again: The reason why I don’t travel overseas is because I am waiting for the world to adopt the the Western Toilet and The Western Toilet Stall as the cultural standard.
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February 16, 2015 at 3:05 pm
😀 😀 😀 We were lucky 9/10ths of the time.
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February 16, 2015 at 9:19 pm
Loved the photo of the truck!
womenlivinglifeafter50.com
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February 17, 2015 at 12:43 pm
Isn’t it something? How did they load it up?
😀 😀 😀 Or maybe ‘load it ON?’
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February 17, 2015 at 6:15 pm
What a wonderful mix here Tess…that truck looks as if it can barely move! And I felt your fear in that crowd in the dark, sounds scary. The fear of getting lost in a foreign country is very great. But so glad you were safe and enjoyed the show, looks magnificent 🙂 😀 🙂
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February 17, 2015 at 8:42 pm
I like this photo of the truck so much, I’m thinking of framing it. Trouble is, I have no walls; only shelves and shelves of books lining my walls. I’m soooo proud of myself for remembering to point and shoot. ❤
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February 18, 2015 at 11:15 am
You did great Tess..and that would be a wonderful photo to frame. Maybe you could put it on one of your book shelves? They are good for photos too 🙂 ❤ 😉
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February 18, 2015 at 3:44 pm
😀 😀 Not my bookshelves. They are all JAMpacked with books. 😮
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February 19, 2015 at 4:53 am
But of course 😀 😀 😀
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February 19, 2015 at 7:41 am
😀 😀 😀 Went to a book exchange this past Saturday. Left behind two bags of books and brought home 10 new titles. Did I mention I also volunteer at a charity bookstore. More books. Sigh.
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February 19, 2015 at 11:30 am
Haha…for some strange reason, I’m getting the message that you like books 😀 😀 😀
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February 18, 2015 at 1:42 am
that truck seems to be carrying too much 😉
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February 18, 2015 at 7:51 am
Thank you. I know, right? 😀 How did they even load it up?
I’m terrible taking pictures and remembering to do so, but this is my favorite from my whole trip. Glad I ‘woke’ up. It’s so surreal.
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February 18, 2015 at 10:25 am
They know how to put on a spectacular show don’t they! I can’t stand bathroom smells coming into restaurant areas! So many restaurants have a table that is right near the entrance to the bathrooms and they have to deal with people going in and out, wafting the door! I always say no if they go to seat me in one of those tables, I’d rather wait a bit longer and get one further away!
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February 18, 2015 at 3:40 pm
We were the only occupied table at the time. I DO have a sensitive nose. When Sue said she wasn’t aware of the smell, I thought it was just me… 😮 Still, I didn’t make it up. 👿
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February 18, 2015 at 11:58 am
Impressive show.
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February 18, 2015 at 3:50 pm
I kept forgetting the performance was not on a wooden stage but on the water.
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