How the Cookie Crumbles

Life and scribbles on the far side of SIXTY-FIVE

Yangshuo: Day 17, Part 3 – Countryside

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After the tea ceremony, the (rich) foreigners were whisked into a sales room. Inside, various teas were for sale, as were copious types of teapots and tea sets. Some cost almost as much as my all-inclusive holiday in Canadian dollars. I stepped back, my hands tucked in close to my sides for fear of an accident and breaking up a set. Had I noticed how many pieces made up a set? No, I’d been too petrified.

Before continuing on to Yangshuo by bus, the ladies inquired about the facilities. We traipsed down a long corridor to a small clean washroom. Inside were two stalls with pedestal toilets (wow) inside cubicles with (approximately) three-foot wide shutters for privacy installed in about the middle of the door frame. Anyone might look over the top as she walked past. The one I used didn’t have a proper latch to secure them shut. I hadn’t been this good at gymnastics ever before.

© 2015 All Rights Reserved Tess @ How the Cookie Crumbles

© 2015 All Rights Reserved Tess @ How the Cookie Crumbles

Have you ever seen such a small truck with this impossible load of wood on it’s roof?

The highways were unbelievably neat and clean. No garbage, paper or plastic were in evidence anywhere the same as all the highways we’d been on so far.

Pretty countryside surrounded us along the way to Yangshuo

Quick Facts:

  • Famous for the limestone mountains
  • Grow lots of strawberries
  • Foot massage is only $20.00 USD
  • Zhuang is China’s largest ethnic minority (about 16 million) who like singing
  • Zhuang choose lovers while singing folk songs (a means of courting)
  • They hold an annual Folk Song Festival
  • National Flower: Bauhinia
  • Li River is smaller than Yangtze and shallow
  • Also home to Dragon River and four lakes
  • Lots of nurseries: grow trees for planning
  • Land is government owned (as in all of China). Must renew lease every 70 years.

The countryside viewed from the bus: newly planted fields, farm houses and water

At last we arrived at the hotel. Time to freshen up and have dinner. The hotel appeared empty and too quiet. We were settled at a table in an empty dining room. All throughout dinner we saw only the waitress.

Dinner Menu:

  • Tomato soup
  • Rice
  • Egg pancake
  • French Fries
  • Sweet and sour pork with pineapple
  • Thin noodles with shredded carrots
  • Sliced cucumbers and sliced cooked chicken
  • Cooked sliced celery and water chestnuts
  • Cauliflower, broccoli and carrots, mixed
  • Fermented tofu
  • Chili sauce
  • Soy cakes and sweet dip + soy sauce
  • Battered banana, deep-fried, with caramel

The smell from the bathroom invaded the dining-room. I couldn’t understand such a thing in a hotel of this significance. Phew. I hadn’t been aware of anything like this elsewhere. I asked Sue about it, but she hadn’t been conscious of anything unpleasant.

After dinner, we rushed to attend an open air performance. By the time we arrived in the main park dusk had fallen. At first small clusters of people walked around us with lots of breathing space between us all. By dusk the crowd swarmed like a maelstrom with a mind of its own. I hugged my bag against my chest, arms tucked in as close I could manage. Our English Group Eight clung together with Lily, our guide, ahead of us and tried desperately to keep her in sight. She stopped a couple of times and waited. What made the situation worse was the dark. There were no park lights out in the open. I felt blindfolded. Never have I experienced this tight a convergence of bodies around me. I confess terror struck me for the first time since we’d arrived in China; terror the crowd might rip me from my fellow travelers; terror of being lost and disoriented in a foreign country and in the dark.

Lily left us to buy entrance tickets and suggested we wait while the crowd thinned out before taking us to our seats. She wasn’t allowed to sit with us. We took our seats after she explained where we’d find her when the performance ended.

Our seats were good in about the third tier up. The show was like nothing I had ever seen. This video doesn’t do it enough justice. You had to be there. The Chinese sure know how to put on stunning presentations! Enjoy.

Excellent show “Impression Liu San Jie” (in Yangshuo)

Credit: Uwe Völker

~ * ~

Next on February 20th, Yangshuo: Day 18, Part 1 – Li River

For more related posts, click on China tab at the top of the page

© 2015 All Rights Reserved Tess @ How the Cookie Crumbles

Author: Let's CUT the Crap!

I'm getting a little LONG in the tooth and have things to say about---ouch---AGEing. I believe it's certainly a state of mind but sometimes it's nice to hear that you're NORMAL. I enjoy reading by the truckload. I'm a grandma but I don't feel OLD although I'm not so young anymore. My plan is to stick it out as long as I can on this lovely planet and only will leave it kicking and screaming!

79 thoughts on “Yangshuo: Day 17, Part 3 – Countryside

  1. I’d hate to be driving behind that overloaded truck. Or worse, biking behind it. Yikes. :/

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  2. I agree with both previous comments, still enjoying my virtual trip via Tess China tours
    🙂 xxx

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  3. You’ve really had some hair raising moments with this tour, Tess. Overwhelming crowd… in utter darkness. Good grief… Terror is right. I’m not sure any performance would have been worth it. But it does sound beautiful. Thanks for including the video.
    Happy Valentine’s Day to you. Hugs! ❤

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    • Happy Valentines, Teagan.
      There were lights in the seating area and one dull one outside the entrance to it. I was transfixed. Everything was performed on the water and so many performers were involved. Stunning is what I call it all. ❤

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  4. That show is stunning Tess. I know what you mean about the video not doing it justice so I’m trying to imagine it in it’s live form. I know I can’t, not really. I can also imagine the fear of being torn from your traveling partners. It’s amazing and says a lot about your traveling that this is the first time that your actually felt that kind of fear, you’ve been to so many places already. So I’m pretty impressed with the group and the traveling arrangements for this to be the first time.

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  5. That open air “mountain-water” theater is spectacular! The moments of being terrified in the crowd though, sound awful. I can imagine how scary that was.
    (And the bathroom odor in the dining room-ewwwww!)

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  6. Fabulous, the theater. I can’t do crowds though so I felt you in there. I just love your travels Tess, I do think you need to do more of these.

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    • Thank YOU, Val. We’re not used to zero personal space. I know understand how someone can be crushed in a crowd (trampled).
      We were told, never to take our feet off the ground because a crowd could carry you off, that’s how crowded some places could get. This is the first time. The next was in Macau.

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  7. As for the truck with impossible loads, come to Africa, they do that here too. 😊 The video brings the atmosphere over well. It looks quite magnificent 🌻

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  8. I echo willowdot21’s comment—am enjoying this arm-chair tour of China seen through your eyes. It’s been filled with exciting, fabulous, exotic experiences including those occasional quiet moments– only you can tell so well.. Thanks Tess–are you almost home?

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  9. It looks both truly impressive and terrifying at the same time. I agree that we’re all enjoying the tour with you. Have a great Valentine’s Tess!

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  10. OMG, that truck just did it for me I can’ stop laughing about it.

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  11. That is a serious case of overloading!

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  12. Reblogged this on Smorgasbord – Variety is the spice of life and commented:
    I enjoy my weekly armchair trip through China in the company of writer Tess Karlinski – this week mixed reviews on bathrooms and a stunning outdoor performance….photos and video too.

    Liked by 1 person

  13. always incredible and creative!

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  14. The food sounds good this time Tess and the countryside is stunning. You must have wondered what you ‘d let yourself in for on the way to the performance 🙂 but how amazing, I can’t imagine how they ever conceive of their ideas! Fabulous to experience it through you 🙂

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  15. Apart from the handicaps you had, I hope you enjoyed the play. I didn’t see it, but I had lovely 5 hours in a boat where we had a tasty lunch. The voyage along the river was so nice I’ll never forget it, the mountains along the river are incredible and imposing. Well I’m waiting for more of yout trip and experiences.

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  16. I love the overloaded truck photo Tess. Just as amazing are some of the loads that I saw on small motorbikes. These folks know how to use their transport. I’ve never been to this part of China, so I enjoyed your post. ~James

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  17. Loved the picture of the truck. Thought it was a hand cart at first!

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  18. The music on the video is so peaceful. My body calmed down listening to it and watching it. Wonderful. And, the lush countryside photos are so nice. Thank you for taking the time to share all this with us. Doubtful I’ll do much traveling from here on out and it’s so nice to see this and live vicariously with others experiences. Happy Valentine’s Day, Tess. ❤

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  19. Can I assume that most toilets over there are ‘bomb shoots’? The first time I had to use one, I finally realized, some of extent, how spoiled I am on this side of the world.

    Happy Valentine’s Day, my friend. ❤

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    • Happy Valentines to you as well, my friend, Glynis. ❤
      What is a 'bomb shoot'? You mean a squat toilet, I suppose. Staying in 5-star hotels we had luxurious bathrooms. In the beginning in a 'few' restaurants and parts, we weren't always lucky. We were taken to special washrooms suitable for tourists most of the time.

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  20. What an incredible place and backdrop for a show but yes, it must have been very scary getting to your seats in such a crowd and in the dark 😮

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  21. Man I can’t imagine getting squeezed in the dark. It made me sweat just reading it.

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  22. I love the truck photo and I do agree that we can become very gymnastic in the right circumstances. Your trip is wonderful and I love reading about it, but every installment makes me wonder if you aren’t getting tired with the pace you are keeping so well. I would fall asleep at the performance you went to.

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    • I loved the performance once the terror subsided and we came around a corner to lit seats. I marveled at magic created on the water and had to remind myself it wasn’t a stage; it was w.a.t.e.r.
      The pace is slowing down now. I was more tired in the beginning because we hit the ground running–no time for jet lag–from the get-go. The cruise fixed that.

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    • That truck is my ‘trophy’ from the trip. I was there. My brain told me to take the darn picture and now I’m proud of my self because I have proof of what I thought impossible. 😀 😀

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  23. I think the truck would be illegal here in America. Considered too dangerous. The bathroom smell–yuck! Are we too pampered? Or did they do it on purpose?

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    • This was the weirdest hotel. We saw no-one till breakfast and they had the least interesting buffet of all the hotels.
      I agree about the illegal. That’s a no brainer even without laws. I can’t believe the truck and driver weren’t crushed. A great picture though and I’m glad I was swift enough to get it as it drove by. 🙂

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  24. HI Tess,
    I am not comfortable in a large crowd either, but the performance was stunning! Thank you for taking us along for the ride!

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  25. Wow, that video was really something! Thanks for sharing it, Tess.

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  26. The performance looks amazing! Glad you enjoyed it in spite of the panicky feeling on the way.

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  27. Wow! What an amazing experience!

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  28. I said it before and I’ll say it again: The reason why I don’t travel overseas is because I am waiting for the world to adopt the the Western Toilet and The Western Toilet Stall as the cultural standard.

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  29. Loved the photo of the truck!
    womenlivinglifeafter50.com

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  30. What a wonderful mix here Tess…that truck looks as if it can barely move! And I felt your fear in that crowd in the dark, sounds scary. The fear of getting lost in a foreign country is very great. But so glad you were safe and enjoyed the show, looks magnificent 🙂 😀 🙂

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  31. that truck seems to be carrying too much 😉

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    • Thank you. I know, right? 😀 How did they even load it up?
      I’m terrible taking pictures and remembering to do so, but this is my favorite from my whole trip. Glad I ‘woke’ up. It’s so surreal.

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  32. They know how to put on a spectacular show don’t they! I can’t stand bathroom smells coming into restaurant areas! So many restaurants have a table that is right near the entrance to the bathrooms and they have to deal with people going in and out, wafting the door! I always say no if they go to seat me in one of those tables, I’d rather wait a bit longer and get one further away!

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